1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

96 Bonne NEED HELP NEWBIE

Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #11  
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No they are Autolite. I got to thinking about checking the simple problems first. Like plugs and wires. I just put new plugs and wires in about a year ago, so I didn't think I would have a problem there. Guess what, found the problem was in the wires. Two of the spark plug wires had opens and the other were reading so low I couldn't believe it. Went back to Advance Auto and was able to get another set under warranty. The wire set was Xact brand 7mm. I don't know what would make then go bad so soon. This would be the second set in less than two years. The spark plugs that I had in before where Autolite 606'* which burn to low. Made the upgrade to the right plug that is suppose to be in it. After I changed the wires she ran get. Pull out of the driveway and did a 20' burn out! Best it has ran in a long time.

Thanks to the additional threads from this form, I did find another problem that I was not aware of. Found the coolant leak on the intake, on the side of the EGR that the 3800 II are famous for. Looks like it is coming from the LIM. It is a very small leak and looks like it has come and gone away at times. Thanks to all for the additional info. Well be watching the overflow bottle real close.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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I'd highly recommend you replace the UIM with the APN intake.

You -MUST- do the lower gaskets as well. I can't (and others will agree here) stress how critical it is to do them. A number of threads have popped up recently that all sound like LIM gasket failures rather than the upper being replaced, likely because most dealers replaced just the UIM previously. Get the aluminum gasket set from GM and save yourself the stress in the long run.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Will try and get to it as soon as the weather warms up a bit. I don't have a garage and it get'* pretty cold at night here.

Even though I got rid a the big miss fire, I now notice a slight ramp up and down in idle speed while at a stop light. Plus the throttle is sticking at idle. Really have to push down on it to get the throttle to move. I think I might have to go back and adjust the idle stop screw again.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Dads Toy
The spark plugs that I had in before where Autolite 606'* which burn to low. Made the upgrade to the right plug that is suppose to be in it.
If you took the 606'* out, which Autolites are in there now? Just curious.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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Autolite Double Platinum APP606. Plugs before where just the regular Autolite 606 which failed along with the plug wires.

My 7year old son went out and measured the burn out we did after doing the throttle position mod and the tune up. Was 20' of pos lock and a total of 100' limited slip. Not bad for Grandma'* old car. Can't wait to change out the rocker arms, cam, sloted rotors, etc... :P

One thing I notice after doing the Throttle Position Mod was the car can red line now. Before it would come close but would not go past 5000rpms. I really have to watch the Tach now. I was able to ramp up to over 5500 rpms. Car has a lot of power now. Just wish I can figure out this sticky throttle at idle.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 01:36 PM
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Sticky throttle at idle is probably a dirty TB.
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