1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

95 Starts fine, runs good until warm..then misses,stumbles

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Old 09-26-2004, 02:38 PM
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Well, Well, Well.....Seems my second opinion (dealer)on this problem says that it'* the Ignition Module. ($400+ repair) I guess it'* possible, but just still hard to believe. I just put that Module on the car 1 month ago. I find it even harder to believe that I replaced a supposed BAD module with another BAD module. I'm going right now to have the first Module tested at my local AutoZo** store. The odds of this new module being faulty are pretty small.

I'll let you know the outcome!

Mark
Old 09-26-2004, 02:43 PM
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Mark, many bad modules test good on the Autozone and similar testers. That won't help you solve this at all. $400 is 10 times too much for that, too. Get another module from a wrecker. 93-99 to be sure. Any GM 3800.
Old 09-27-2004, 09:00 PM
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Thanks Wil
I'm getting the car back tomorrow and have just purchased a module with a set of coils from a 96 Camaro for $38.00 + shipping. I'm anxious to see if that'* what it was.

-Mark
Old 09-27-2004, 09:17 PM
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Hope you got it with the bracketry. '95 is the Series I, right? The the V-6 Camaro had the SII switch in '96, right?


-justin
Old 09-27-2004, 09:32 PM
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A 95 NA is the Series 2. And he can use his original bracket. The ICM should bolt right to it.
Old 10-26-2004, 11:29 AM
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Well I FINALLY have closure,
I got the 96 Camaro Ignition Module/Coils installed, cleaned the Injectors good and still wouldn't run right! Hauled it back to dealer, checked Ignition Module, OK... found bad Crank Sensor. replaced that and ...VIOLA car fixed.


Thanks for all your help

Mark
Old 10-26-2004, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mark2112
Well I FINALLY have closure,
I got the 96 Camaro Ignition Module/Coils installed, cleaned the Injectors good and still wouldn't run right! Hauled it back to dealer, checked Ignition Module, OK... found bad Crank Sensor. replaced that and ...VIOLA car fixed.


Thanks for all your help

Mark

yet another 25.99 part to totally screw up a car.

I thought GM fixed this on the SII'*
Old 10-26-2004, 06:42 PM
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Default sharing my personal experience

I also had a similar problem with my bonne, and after replacing crank, cam, icm, and 1 coil, I found the problem to be corroded wiring and bad insulation(ckp sensor circuit).
Make sure to trace and inspect the connectors and wiring. I suggest that everyone replace their crank and cam sensors every 50k mi. It offers peace of mind, saves you $$$ on the tow. [/b]
Old 11-04-2004, 04:14 PM
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Well....It'* not over until it'* over!! I was headed home after my 35+ mile commute last friday and made 2 errand stops, on the 2 stop (app 5 mins.) took off and noticed the car started missing/stumbling/rough again. I left it sitting for the night and went to pick it up the following day. It acted as if nothing happened. Monday, same thing, made 1 stop, fired up and immediately started missing. This time I was only 1 mile from home so I drove it on in struggling for power and parked it for the night. I have driven it sucessfully for 4 days without further problems, other than an occassional hickup occuring at about the same place every morning, but I have lost my confidence in the reliability of this car. I'm not sure it won't leave me stuck again. One thought I had was to drive it directly to the dealer, shut it off, wait a few minutes, drive around their lot until it started doing it, and THEN drive it into the service dept. Maybe they'll be able to find it while it'* happening. It'sreally frustrating looking for intermittent problems!
Old 11-04-2004, 05:32 PM
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It seems to be getting progressively worse. Today on the way home, I ran into some slower traffic (30-40mph speed-up/slow-down) I noticed that it seemed to start acting up when shifting into OD. I'd drop it into D and it would get better, then it would start to do it in D, Then I would go to 2 for a moment and then back to D and it would smooth out for a bit, then it would start again I tried going into N and revving the engine and it would sound just fine. Within 4-5 miles it had gone away and was doing OK as if nothing was wrong, I made it to the house and it seems OK. Last year I was having problems with it not wanting to shift into OD, so I remembered what someone had posted about shutting the car off while driving and opening/shutting the door and I tried it and it worked!! That happened 2 times . My wife thought I was nuts for doing this and proceeded to remind me that I shouln'd do such things with our 5-year old in the car, but I assured her that I knew what I wwas doing!! Whew . Could this be a symptom of an emminant Transmission problem? Torque Converter??
I may have to link this story to a journal or something! Or write a book!!

Thanks for your time guys. I know no one around me wants to hear any of this, and besides most of them barely know how to check the oil in their cars. Really Sad!!

Mark


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