http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...54_77401_8905_

i think this one would be the other one the one you put up says its the a/c press. switch. not like i havent seen there computers wrong but it seems pretty specific. this one says it feeds the dash gauge. and the one i posted before says it feeds the computer

did you check the temp with a IR gun to see if what you are looking at inside is valid?

I replaced the temperature sending unit when I put the new water pump on about 6 months ago. I also replaced a sensor that was located right next to the water pump, I dont remember what it was but I believe it was the other coolant temp sensor...

So this doesn't sound good.

Sorry about these double posts guys.

Yes I did check it with an IR gun, I suppose I could do it again. But when the temp gets up to the 240 range it does seem to run differently, which leads me to believe that it is reading accurate. Of course it may not be.

http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/...5bonniepcm.gif

it says e5 and f13 on your pcm, you could check to see you get the same at the sensor as at the pcm

This thread is pretty confusing in places. Let'* clear some things up.

The low speed fans are programmed to turn on via pcm ground signal to relay at 216F, the high speed fans are programmed to turn on via pcm ground signal to relay at 228F.

The gauges in our cars are anything but accurate. I would trust the gauge to a degree, but get a scanner on it to double check. Confirm that it isn't running as hot as you think it appears.

There is one coolant sensor on the Series II 3800 that your NA 1995 SSE came with from the factory. The Series I 3800 and it'* 3800 predecessors typically had two sensors. In 1995 the SC 3800 was a Series I, which may have been part of the confusion on how many sensors.

The sensor in the radiator is a Coolant Level Sensor. Not a temperature sensor.

The stock thermostat is a 195F degree thermostat and is located under the lower intake manifold directly under the thermostat housing. But on the exterior of the LIM next to the exhaust crossover pipe. The thermostat is located under the thermostat housing where the top radiator hose meets the engine.

The Series II 3800 Coolant Temp Sensor is a two sensors in one unit. There are three wires to it, one to provide ground (IIRC it'* ground and not 5+) and the other two are outgoing feeds. One feeds the temp to the pcm and the other to the dashboard gauge.

If your fans come on with the AC that means the high speed relay is working. If they do come on at 216F-220F on low speed, I would start by checking/replacing the low speed fan relay.

Here'* everything I know.
Both fans come on when the AC turned on. Which means the relays are working.
I've replaced the temp sending unit which is a circular connector located under the thermostat housing
I've replaced another coolant temp sensor that was located right next
to the water pump.
I've let the car sit idle to 240ish and the fans DO NOT come on
The symptoms I get while driving the car are:
The temp gauge will climb to 240 and stay there or go higher in stop
And go traffic. While driving it will get to that temp and then shoot down to 200-215ish.
During high temps it seems the car struggles compared to times when the car reads ~200

Something i thought was weird was as soon as I start pressing the breaks the temp gauge starts rising. Which I thought was odd, almost as if it'* programmed to go up with break application. I know this isn't right so I also thought it may be a possible PCM problem. I had my computer scanned and there supposedly was an internal PCM problem. But you never know with these dealerships...

The fans may work, but turning on the AC and both fans coming on only proves that the high speed fans are working. It does not mean the low speed relay is working.

The brake and temp gauge fluctuation has nothing to do with the pcm. The temperature is sent directly from the the one and only sensor under the tstat housing directly to the gauge. By getting the fluctuation you mention, I'd say it'* time we suggest you clean the ground busses by the door sill plates. There is obviously something electrical happening here.

There is no second sensor by the water pump, radiator or anywhere else on your 95 NA motor. There is only one. I don't know what it was that you swapped, but it'* not a coolant temp sensor. If you could take a picture of it, we can identify it for you.

Your best bet is to have the car scanned for temperature and see what the pcm reading is saying. It'* pretty common for the gauge clusters in our cars to be inaccurate.

Something I forgot to mention.
Before I purchased the r the engine was replaced with another series 2.

Ive considered a ground issue. But is it wrong for me to suggest that my flaky OBD1.5 computer could be causing such things?

You mentioned the relays. If the high speed was working then shouldn't it come on during temps around 230+?

Sure it should have come on when the car hit 230F. However when you say that your gauge moves when you press the brakes, that'* another symptom that leads me more toward an electrical issue more than a mechanical problem. This is why I suggest scanning the car. No one dislikes the 95 pcm, but I've gotten a pretty good feel for when it'* the pcm and when it'* not. So far.. my gut says scanning may show you that the cluster is incorrect.

These clusters are also known for problems. I've had mine apart many times and am about to pull it apart again because the oil pressure isn't what it says...and voltage ain't no 18volts according to my multimeter. Just something to keep in mind...the cluster could be lying. My 95.. it read 240F when the low speed fans kicked on. I used a scanner and found out that the gauges were lying to me.

Alright I'll have it scanned and get back to you. It just seems like the car runs a little odd whenthe gauge reads high.