What would the odds of disconnectiong the battery and hopeing the VATS will simmer down a bit and let him try it?

I was getting the same inconsistant cranking with only the 12 before I pulled it down now I have the vats wires cut and what I do is place the 12 in between it holding the two wires on either side of the pellets. Then I use the number 5 to turn the cylinder to get it to crank which it reacts in the same manner it did before I pulled it apart...


I have had the battery off it for days now charging it up to try this problem out again..


:cry:

I'm confused... From what you've posted, the first key came from a dealer (#12) and the second (#5) was from a locksmith.

I like your idea of soldering in a resistor. At least so we can verify the VATS function. If you know on someone that is in the mobile electronics industry, ask them for an unused "VATS pack" which are included with most remote starters. If the starters are installed in a vehicle without VATS then they are extra. Most installers will keep them, though. If not then it's off to the Shack.

If I'm reading this all correctly (and I've got only about a 60% confidence of _that_), the #12 resistance is the correct one, simply because that's the one that gets your starter motor activated. Never mind what the VIN lookup determines; that tells you only that when the car was built in 1994, it had a #5 VATS module assigned. That was a long time ago.

So put your VATS wiring back together and start using the #12 key. If the engine cranks for a while but then triggers the Security light before the engine actually gets going, I would wonder whether (1) the key resistance is not _quite_ what it's supposed to be, and/or (2) there is an intermittent or dirty connection through the ignition switch key contacts where they touch the key, and eventually the measured resistance goes out of range (or just gets interrupted) before you get the car started.

Once the engine is running, with ignition key in the Run position (e.g. while you're driving), it requires a full 60 seconds of loss of contact with the key resistor before the Security light will come on (as a warning that a fault has been detected), but even then, VATS will not kill the engine; the _only_ thing that will happen while you're driving is that the light will illuminate. But if the measured resistance is momentarily not correct during the _starting_ process, that will lead to an instant kill, as you have seen.

So I think you're on the right track with the right resistance number, but you've still got something flaky, intermittent or slightly out-of-spec-rating that's interfering with your efforts to start the car.

Would possibly replacing the key cylinder help or make a difference at all?? Maybe the key cylinder is just worn out and is getting that flaky intermitant problem?

both keys are brand new..


What is the best way to tie the small wires back up? should I tie them or should I solder them back together?


#12 was bought at the dealer, then I called another dealer and had the vin ran they said I needed #5?

So I bought number 5 at local locksmith. The pellet is within acceptable specs reading 1.120 which the actual number should be 1.130? The number 12 from the dealer was right on the correct number havin a value of 6.040.

I've never had much luck soldering the VATS wires as they are more like thread than they are like wire. I usually use these tiny little butt connectors found at Radio Shack. They say "telephone splice" connectors or something close to that.

Try the solder first but use the butt connectors if you run into problems.

I've soldered them while installing my remote starter. They're pretty fiddly to work with, but with patience you'll get it. More importantly, you'll have a solid connection that won't deteriorate (read: increase resistance) over time.

Twist them together first so the two ends are tightly together, then heat thoroughly, touch a little solder to it, and it'll all melt together. No need to overload it.