94 SSEi master brake cylinder fails, I think - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-31-2007, 03:59 PM   #11
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Instead of getting the cylinder replaced, I talked to 1337ssei'* dad, who said it couldn't possibly be a master brake cylinder and is instead the vacuum line folding because of heat. He said if it were the cylinder, the fluid would leak. He just so strongly believes it couldn't possibly be the cylinder and thinks it is the brake booster vacuum line. What happens when you cap that off? What would lead to such a conclusion? He didn't have time to talk about it more.
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Old 10-31-2007, 04:01 PM   #12
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Mine didn't leak when it was failing. I don't know about the vacuum line, but it'* usually pretty firm.
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Old 10-31-2007, 04:53 PM   #13
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Has he ever seen the seals inside the master cylinder?

When they wear you can loose pressure as in the Fluid can run right by the seals without leaking externally..

And as for the Vacume line to the Booster collapsing.... In all of my years I have yet to ever see on do this... On any 87-05 H Body

Being that the Master cylinder is under warranty( and trust me, AZ and or Advance Remans are not great quality ) Go get another one and replace it.. You don't need to have your pedal hit the floor and have the car keep going...

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Old 10-31-2007, 05:53 PM   #14
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That'* strange. I've never seen these seals firsthand, but is there a picture on the net that I can print out, magnify it 1000 times, and hang it behind me in poster form as I replace the cylinder so that if he comes around I can just point and not have him tell me I'm either leaking fluid externally or that my vacuum line is bad? Though outlandish, I think it would be most helpful.
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Old 10-31-2007, 06:58 PM   #15
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If you know you have no other issues, then replace the master cylinder..

Usually if the seals are worn and allowing the Fluid to bypass the seals, its not too hard to run the brake pedal to the floor... If you pump it up and get better pedal than chances are you either have a leak of a Master Cylinder that has puked

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Old 10-31-2007, 07:39 PM   #16
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This might help a little or maybe not, but there is useful info in it. Also adjust your rears and it will help make a world of difference IMO.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...858&highlight=
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Old 10-31-2007, 10:21 PM   #17
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1337SSEi dad is wrong. Lack of vaccum would create a hard pedal but it would not go all the way down. There are limited numer of things that could allow the pedal to go all the way down: Mainly a brokem linkage or loss of pressure.

You don't see a leak anwhere and theres nothing broken in the linkage so that leaves the MC.and the ABS

The MC has seals around the piston shaft. When those seals leak it allows fluid from the compression side back into the resevoir which leads to the pedal hitting the floor. One item often overlooked in repairs is the shaft that goes into the MC. The end typically looks fine but press pedal to the floor to extend it fully take a look at again. If theres corrosion there then it can tear those seals up when ever the pedal goes to the floor like when you use the brake pedal to bleed the brakes. Thats why I vacuum bleed my brakes. Pressure bleeding works well too.

ABS typically works by venting excess brakine pressure on the slipping wheels back to the res. I'm not very familiar with our cars ABS system so I'll leave that to the gearheads.
I wonder if you felt the brake pedal pulsing though.
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Old 10-31-2007, 10:43 PM   #18
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There was no pulsing, but the braking power was intermittent. The problem is that I had this braking problem shortly after swapping out the brake booster vacuum line, and 1337ssei'* dad swore it was a bad idea (I got the ricer-blue vacuum tubing, and it works really well). The thing is that the other ones work just fine, so wouldn't the thickest one hold up either the same or even better? Either way, tomorrow is my day off, and I'll replace the cylinder then. I guess it'* all the more I'll post in my work whorage post!
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:02 PM   #19
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Which is easier to squeeze shut, the original booster line or the new line?
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:04 PM   #20
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The new line is easier, but that'* not saying much. Both are fairly hard to squeeze.
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