94 SSE has spark and fuel but will not start, please help
 

Ok yall, first my car, now moms 94. A wiring harness got loose and well the belt ate through it so we had it towed home this morning, my granddad spiced the wires together with butt splice connectors, car fired right up, i opened the garage door to back it out, and almost as soon as i hit the garage door button, the car stalled, and will not start again. He took the alternator back off and rechecked everything, it was all ok, turned the car over with the alt. off and it started so we cut if off real quick, put it all back together, and poof it wont start again, so he did the same thing again, and it still wont start at all now, it has spark, and fuel going to the engine, but it will not start, could it be the crank sensor, or what do u guys think, i have a code reader thing but it is in my car and mom had to take that this morning but any advice would be much appreciated

If you have verified ignition spark, then I'm thinking the crank sensor is not the fault.

Could it be the coil pack??? I need my car back. I hate to have to put it in the shop if I don't have to cuz funds are low and Christmas is around the corner and so is Jeff's birthday.

PLEASE HELP!! :help:

If you have spark, it isn't the coil pack or crank sensor.

Please verify spark at all 6 cylinders. Make sure no spark plug wires were damaged and may be arcing or shorting by starting the car in the dark and misting clean water over the engine with a spray bottle.

How did you verify fuel? I suggest pulling the fuel rail and injectors and cranking. Make sure all of them fire (do this with a large pan obviously).

Sounds like you verified spark and fuel, but make sure at all 6 of each if you know what I mean.

Which harness was damaged, and exactly HOW was it? Was ANYthing else damaged?

Just off the phone with Bill and John.

You are running until everything is back together. This leads me to think one of those butt connectors isn't holding very well and when all is in place it has pressure on it that's causing a short or issue.

Look for other wires that may have gotten beaten by the belt. Also if at all possible get some wire, solder and a 100/140 watt soldering gun. Solder the wires back together, the butt connectors will work short term and probably corrode over the next few months. Simple oxygen will corrode the copper and keep if from making a good connection.

After that I think you'd probably be good. If not I'd think there was yet another wire somewhere that isn't making a good connection. Also check the plug wires for any arching or scorched marks. The check engine light is most likely because of a misfire with the ignition cutting out on you.

ok my code reader is not getting a response from the vehicle, which never happens, i pulled the puter, and plugged it back in and it cranked, ran and stalled immediately but that is the most we have gotten from the car in 2 days, so im gonna try to replace that from a wrecker yard tomorrow and see what happens, i know to change the prom chip from one to the new one, this car goes through puters like candy

Not a bad thought. With a major electrical problem like that, the PCM could suffer.

well did the puter and nothing, still doing the same thing, had a mechanic come over from next door with a fuel injector tester thingy and there is no electricity going to the injectors it is getting spark and fuel is going to them, but there is no juice going to the electical connection, or something like that, i guess it was a light and did didnt come on. please help as the car will prolly go in the shop if noone can help doesnt help

Injector duty cycle is determined by the cam sensor. However, if it fails, the injectors SHOULD run in a default inefficient state.

This is a new one on me. With the PCM ruled out (assuming you patched in a good unit), the injectors should be doing SOMETHING.

Nevermind, she is going into the shop today. Thanks anyways for the suggestions!