94 SE - Long crank on cold start
Fuel filter was replaced about 2 years ago / 25k miles, so that should be okay, but probably coming up on inspection time. I've had this problem since I've had the car, so replacing the fuel filter didn't help back then.
What should pressure be with ignition off? Same?
What should pressure be with ignition off? Same?
Fuel pressure got up to 38 psi with ignition on engine off. On it'* way out?
I did not smell fuel in the pressure regulator lines, however, I must admit I have a somewhat rigged connection from the pressure regulator to where it splits to the other two hoses. There was originally a somewhat round plastic piece between the the hose coming from the pressure regulator and the hose connecting it to the split between the other two hoses going to the throttle body. I took this piece to a few part stores back in the day and they didn't know what it was for, so they gave me some generic "T" thing that you cut to fit to the hoses you're using. However, one end isn't used (I don't think it was in the old piece either) so I just taped over it. Could this have something to do with it? Anyone know what small plastic round piece I'm talking about?
I did not smell fuel in the pressure regulator lines, however, I must admit I have a somewhat rigged connection from the pressure regulator to where it splits to the other two hoses. There was originally a somewhat round plastic piece between the the hose coming from the pressure regulator and the hose connecting it to the split between the other two hoses going to the throttle body. I took this piece to a few part stores back in the day and they didn't know what it was for, so they gave me some generic "T" thing that you cut to fit to the hoses you're using. However, one end isn't used (I don't think it was in the old piece either) so I just taped over it. Could this have something to do with it? Anyone know what small plastic round piece I'm talking about?
I just realized though that if this piece isn't important, I could probably skip the T connector altogether. I was young and knowledgeless at the time though, so I'm assuming this was some kind of pressure release piece.
Rresurrecting this because I'm finally getting around to it.
Following FSM procedure for diagnosing fuel system, it wants me to clamp the lines, but I have what appears to be plastic lines. I can't do this can I?
My pressure is only getting up to 38 psi max. I cycled ignition and released air out of the gauge a couple of times. The pressure is bleeding off also. Not very fast, but if you take a moment to watch the gauge you will see it slowly moving down. If the pump were on it'* way out, it wouldn't allow it to bleed off would it? Just not get it up to pressure? Could a faulty pressure regulator also keep pressure from reaching max?
From what I have read in the FSM and online, it sounds like the bleeding is a result of a bad injector O-ring or faulty injector. Any opinions?
Following FSM procedure for diagnosing fuel system, it wants me to clamp the lines, but I have what appears to be plastic lines. I can't do this can I?
My pressure is only getting up to 38 psi max. I cycled ignition and released air out of the gauge a couple of times. The pressure is bleeding off also. Not very fast, but if you take a moment to watch the gauge you will see it slowly moving down. If the pump were on it'* way out, it wouldn't allow it to bleed off would it? Just not get it up to pressure? Could a faulty pressure regulator also keep pressure from reaching max?
From what I have read in the FSM and online, it sounds like the bleeding is a result of a bad injector O-ring or faulty injector. Any opinions?
Sorry that was idling immediately after starting.
Also, it is feasible to replace a fuel pump with just a hyraulic jack and stands? Or will that not be enough clearance to drop the tank?
Also, it is feasible to replace a fuel pump with just a hyraulic jack and stands? Or will that not be enough clearance to drop the tank?
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