Ok heres the story..

Back in Sept. We bought this 94 bonneville everything ran great for about a week then it started running funny but it wasnt no real issue. We changed the oil when we got the car but made one BIG mistake that has caused us ONE big headache and alot of money. We didnt change the fuel filter. In return for a 6 to 10 dollar part it has cost us around 350+.

The car started dying out on us then it wouldnt start. After some messing around we noticed it was the Fuel pump that had died. We bought a new fuel pump my husband dropped the tank atleast 5 times maybe more because it kept leaking gas. We finally discovered it was the fuel sending unit. Ok so we get a fuel sending unit.

We now got a pump at 110 fuel filter fuel sending unit at another 110 air filter. So we change all that out an it still wouldnt start. So they do some looking around under the hood. And after a few hours they notice a vacuum hose that was never hooked up to anything. They plug it car fires right up no problems.

Run it around the block a few times running better then it did when we had bought the car. Now we go out there at night to run up town car wont start. So my husband goes an unhooks the vacuum hose going to the vapor canister hooks it back up car fires up. We go do what we was planing on doing an the car dies 4 times. Ok so we figure the vapor canister is bad we get a new one another 84 bucks. Put it in nothing car wont start.

So we figure some junk got in the lines past the fuel filter we get this stuff called b12 chemtool or something to that sort toss it to the tank fires up again. Runs fine for about 10 minutes then nothing, Do some more exploring Husband checks pressure an no pressure comming past the fuel pressure regulator so we buy a new one another 110 bucks.

We put that in tonight we know the old one was bad you could actually turn the top of it. Car starts runs alright. I take it for a drive still acting funny to me pull in drive way shut it off wont start AGAIN!!!!!

Finally after cranking it for a bit it starts. Then Husband shuts it off he unhooks both battery cables thinking maybe the board isnt registering the new parts. Leaves it unhooked for awhile then hooks it back up trys to start it. It took a good 10 minutes of cranking to start it.

We have no way to test it. The service engine light is on has been on for some months. Every place I have called gives me a price to toss it on the tester of course an obd1 which no auto part store carrys. But then informs me they will not give me the results unless i have it fixed there WTF.

I have done drained our account trying to fix this darn car an still having no luck I have been without a car for over a month now an we only have one vehicle. This is getting on my last nerve.

The fuel pump is acting different from when we had first put it in before it was like a humming noise now its more of an annoying buzzing noise. Could we have a bad pump. My husband is talking about dropping the tank again.

We have looked all through the repair book on this car another 20 bucks but everything points to everything we have already replaced. They have tested the fuel injectors with a screw driver like it says to in the book.
They say the injectors are all working. Can I get around about on what to look for next an see how much more money im out. As I have said I have done drained my account and we have no money to take to a shop or it would have been there ALONG time ago.

Thank you for any help I can get.

I have been reading this site for the past 2 hours and tomarrow I'm going to have my husband check the battery cables. That seems to be the root of all evil to most peoples problems.

If I can get any other suggestions on what to look for I would be very grateful.

Can you edit that to make it a bit more readable using the guidelines here?

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=73691

One long paragraph is hard to read. Thanks.

When you check the battery cables, make sure you pull the boots OFF the ends, then clean them. You can't see the corrosion unless you do.

What is your fuel pressure now that you've replaced the FPR and pump under these conditions:

1. Key on, engine off.
2. Idle.
3 Idle with the vacuum line pulled from the FPR.

And how long does it take to bleed down to zero after you key off? Long time? Minutes?

After checking the fuel pressure, when the car is not starting, check to see if you are getting spark.

Its getting spark we have tested those before.

As for the fuel Im not sure of the results to those questions I know when we first put the pump in the fuel would fly out of the pressure valve then it stopped an went to a drizzle. Now it is doing the normal flying up on the windshield when we press in the pressure valve. Thats how we detrimed the FPR was bad was because we had pressure from the line connected to the FPR but not after it. They all seems to be fine.

I'm amlost certain it is the battery cables. My husband works 3rd shift an the weather has not been working in our favor. I went an bought new battery cables just to replace them with new. I went out there tonight an I can see all the build up on them, They dont look to healthy.

But I have another question. I have read in the book an when I look at the battery cable conencting part in the book it says the positive is to run to the starter solinoid. Then when I look at the battery its like spliced at the positive an running up over the motor then a line running under the motor. But on the new cable I bought theres a big line then a small short line. I see where the small line hooks an the big line goes to the starter. But where would the line running under the battery go? I dont want my husband splicing up any wires until I find out what the other line is going too.

Thank you

There are a total of three battery cables.

1 negative (two wires coming off of it) the larger wire connectors directly to the engine block, the small connects to the body right behind the battery.

Positive cables, you will have three connections, 1 connection of a smaller gauge wire to the alternator, 1 connection to the maxifuse relay center and 1 connector to the starter

Been there..done that.. no more corrosion.

Ok Battery cables have been replaced. The cable going to starter was nothing but corrosion. But made no difference. The car still has a hard time starting an staying running. Im about to give up. I have no Idea what to even do next.

Can anyone tell me if this is the scantool I need?

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/sit.../CP9110-CP9111

anyone by chance have a spare CP9115 cable they are willing to sell? I have searched every where found one at advance for 60 some bucks ouch

Would this cable work or no?

http://www.obd2allinone.com/sc/detai...item=obd2cable

I may be wrong, but aren't GM OBD I ECMs readable by bridging the A terminal to ground on the connector? Where it flashes the codes through the check engine light? Get those codes!



Edit: Damn, then she'* got a 16 pin

Netscion - 94 and 95 Bonnevilles were an OBD I/II hybrid. You cannot jump the terminals using the traditional method on Bonnevilles 1994 and newer.

All of the OBD I and OBD II codes are in TechInfo.

Netscion, not after '93. She needs the scantool.

She'* on the right track trying to get the obd2 connector and obd1 reader.

Jammie,
I don't know if the CP9110-9111 will work, but I believe that it does. And like you've found, that obd2 cable is expensive as OEM. If I were you, I would email the company that sells that $9.99 cable and ask them if that cable will work on the CP9110. I suspect it will, but do not know. Here'* their email address:
Email: sales@obd2allinone.com