94 Bonne Wont Start - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-17-2007, 02:46 AM   #1
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Default 94 Bonne Wont Start

94 Bonneville wont start. put key in and turn key all lights and power comes on but when you turn the key to start the car all lights and power dies just like a bad battery all you hear is click.
1. Turned car off pumped gas and tried to start car thought dead battey tried jumping no luck, towed home.
2. Charged battery and cleaned battery post, no luck.
3. Removed starter checked bad, replaced with new starter, same thing no luck.
4. Removed battery and put new onein car, same thing .
5. Used a wrench on the motor and it does turn.

What should i do now any help thanks Scott
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:05 AM   #2
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Default Re: 94 Bonne Wont Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by smfuller
94 Bonneville wont start. put key in and turn key all lights and power comes on but when you turn the key to start the car all lights and power dies just like a bad battery all you hear is click.
1. Turned car off pumped gas and tried to start car thought dead battey tried jumping no luck, towed home.
2. Charged battery and cleaned battery post, no luck.
3. Removed starter checked bad, replaced with new starter, same thing no luck.
4. Removed battery and put new onein car, same thing .
5. Used a wrench on the motor and it does turn.

What should i do now any help thanks Scott
If your positive cable is a double cable check the contact between the two cables for corrosion. Check the cable down into the insulation for deterioration from battery acid. check the ground connections for negative at both ends.

I'm assuming your problem is not VATS system because you're saying the power dies implying that there is a drain like the starter is connecting.

For the VATS, when you turn the key to ON do you see a security light for a few seconds which goes off as the VATS reads the proper resistance from the chip in the key?
After the security light goes off, when you crank is the click very light like a relay under the middle of the dash connecting? That would be the starter enable relay being permitted to connect by the VATS system.
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Old 12-17-2007, 10:56 AM   #3
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Absolutely disconnect both battery cables and pull the boots off. You MUST pull the boots to see the corrosion. It'll be there. We get a good dozen cars a month sometimes with this problem. Much more prevalent in the winter (wet) months.

Clean all the corrosion, apply dielectric grease (liberally) and reassemble. It'* good to do the same thing to the power feed at the starter, the charge feed from the alternator, and the ground locations under the ICM at the same time.
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Old 12-17-2007, 12:39 PM   #4
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I checked the VAT and the cables no good.
I pulled the belt to check if everything moves freely by hand everything but the AC unit i cant turn it at all could that be a problem not letting it turn over eating all the power trying to start to much drag on the starter.
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Old 12-17-2007, 02:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smfuller
I checked the VAT and the cables no good.
I pulled the belt to check if everything moves freely by hand everything but the AC unit i cant turn it at all could that be a problem not letting it turn over eating all the power trying to start to much drag on the starter.
Does the car crank with the AC power line disconnected and belt not on it. Don't run motor more than few seconds with the belt off.
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Old 12-17-2007, 02:44 PM   #6
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I'm charging the battery now. Hope it cranks over or starts.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:24 AM   #7
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Battery all charged and the engine crack over right away it was the A/C compressor. Bought the A/C delete pullie. Now How do remove the A/C compressor.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smfuller
Battery all charged and the engine crack over right away it was the A/C compressor. Bought the A/C delete pullie. Now How do remove the A/C compressor.
Buy or check out from your local library a copy of Chilton'* 28200 repair manual. It should have the step by step instructions for AC compressor R&R and much other useful information.

Assuming your system is already discharged, removing the compressor is a simple matter of disconnecting the lines and unbolting the unit from the engine. A couple of the bolts may tax your patience, but it is not a tough job. If your system is still charged, take it to an AC shop and ask them to discharge the system for you. They will usually do this with R-12 for free or for a small charge for R-134a as the refrigerant is valuable and can usually be recycled.
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:03 PM   #9
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Well removed the A/C compressor the only tough time was the removing the wiring they are hard to pull out. Lines and compressor were very easy to remove. Installed the A/C delete pullie. Charging the battery right now. I'm not putting A/C back in what should i do with the open ends where the hoses used to go. Thanks for everyones help.
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:56 PM   #10
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Glad you found problem. My compressor pulley went while running and took out the belt and harmonic balancer with it. At least you found it before more damage happened!

Hey wait, you do have " damage" from all those replaced parts!

Ride on!
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