93 SSEI GUZZLING GASOLINE - HELP! - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-27-2004, 09:55 PM   #11
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I'd still be looking at ignition and 02 sensor at the same time.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger
Checking the FPR by pressing the pressure valve on the fuel rail can be a bit misleading. GM fuel pumps are known to sometimes not hold pressure after shut down and leak down into the tank. This would give a false indication. The best way to check the FPR is to pull the vacuum hose off of it while the engine is running. If any fuel leaks out of the nipple, the FPR is bad.
Yes and no. Mine wouldn't leak from the vac post, but still wouldn't hold pressure. So, I suggest both methods. And I still think it is most likely the O2.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger
Checking the FPR by pressing the pressure valve on the fuel rail can be a bit misleading. GM fuel pumps are known to sometimes not hold pressure after shut down and leak down into the tank. This would give a false indication. The best way to check the FPR is to pull the vacuum hose off of it while the engine is running. If any fuel leaks out of the nipple, the FPR is bad.
Yes and no. Mine wouldn't leak from the vac post, but still wouldn't hold pressure. So, I suggest both methods. And I still think it is most likely the O2.
jwikoff,
There is a check valve on the fuel pump that is supposed to prevent leak down. If yours didn't leak at the FPR but would not hold pressure it is likely that the FPR was good but the check valve was bad. That is the point I was trying to make so that he doesn't change a FPR needlessly.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:46 PM   #14
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That'* cool. I don't want him to change it needlessly, either. But a new FPR did fix my leakdown problem.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:55 PM   #15
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WOW! I guess you can't argue with success.
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Old 08-31-2004, 06:28 PM   #16
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Ok! I have now replaced spark plugs (platinum) and wires. A definitive improvement in power. The fact that one of the cables had a craked boot AND a cut all the way down to the core might have had something to d with it. (amazd that the thing even ran with it)
I still haven't repplaced the O2 'cause I didn't have a jack (don't laugh) to raise it far enough to fit a not-too-slim yours truly underneath to replace it.
I'll do that very soon though.
You did mention that the TC might be slipping. I assume we are talking about the torque converter. Now, Transmission seems to shift fine, although the car feels kind of "heavy". and at standstill and level ground in drive, if I let the brake go, it will barely start moving, whe I'm used to having the cars move a lot more. Hummm.... A mechanic sugested putting in an additive called "Lucas" and maybe a transmission service.
I also note two other things. The boost control needle, at idle, fluctuates (jumps) a little bit. Maybe a belt slipping? Belt looks allright. Second, when I accelerate moderately hard (not WOT) the oil pressure gage tends to reach just shy of the 120 psi mark. that scares me. At idle it also fluctuates but basically it stays around 60 psi. Now that'* scarry. Any ideas?
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Old 08-31-2004, 06:31 PM   #17
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Got the jack and will be replacing the O2 tonight! I'm also filling the tank up so I'll be able to check the efficiency.
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Old 08-31-2004, 07:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVITOLS
Ok! I have now replaced spark plugs (platinum) and wires. A definitive improvement in power. The fact that one of the cables had a craked boot AND a cut all the way down to the core might have had something to d with it. (amazd that the thing even ran with it)
I still haven't repplaced the O2 'cause I didn't have a jack (don't laugh) to raise it far enough to fit a not-too-slim yours truly underneath to replace it.
I'll do that very soon though.
You did mention that the TC might be slipping. I assume we are talking about the torque converter. Now, Transmission seems to shift fine, although the car feels kind of "heavy". and at standstill and level ground in drive, if I let the brake go, it will barely start moving, whe I'm used to having the cars move a lot more. Hummm.... A mechanic sugested putting in an additive called "Lucas" and maybe a transmission service.
I also note two other things. The boost control needle, at idle, fluctuates (jumps) a little bit. Maybe a belt slipping? Belt looks allright. Second, when I accelerate moderately hard (not WOT) the oil pressure gage tends to reach just shy of the 120 psi mark. that scares me. At idle it also fluctuates but basically it stays around 60 psi. Now that'* scarry. Any ideas?
First of all, don't use Platinum plugs in a SC car. Read the NGK Tech Talk post near the top of the Performance Forum. Replace the O2 from the TOP. It'* much easier. For the TC slip, can you tell us how many rpm'* you run at 55 mph in OD? That can pretty much settle that question.

Your boost gauge is normal. It'* really not possible to get belt slip at idle, and your boost is fully bypassed anyway.
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Old 08-31-2004, 09:37 PM   #19
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55 MPH IN OD GIVES 1500 RPM
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Old 09-01-2004, 12:05 PM   #20
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THAT'* 1500 RPM IN OD IN PERFORMANCE SHIFT MODE.

thanks for the heads up on the O2 sensor replacement from top suggestion. It was so much easier from the top. I replaced it and then filled up the tank. I use 91 octane premium (only thing available here)
I did 38 miles of stop and go driving last night with the AC on (it was 98F at 9:30 PM ) and it the fuel gage moved from past the last line to right over the last line (full line) Already I can notice the improvement.
It seems that it was the O2. Although replacing the frayed wires and plugs helped for sure.

Iwill read the NGK brief in a bit.
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