I used up the last of my R-12 about three years ago. Since then, I have done several conversions to R-134a and have no complaints on the efficiency or durability of the new more environmentally friendly refrigerant. If there is any pressure left in the old system, I take it to a certified AC shop and ask them if they will pump out the R-12 for the value of the refrigerant they recover. I have never had to pay to have this done.

If you don't have a vacuum pump, ask the same shop if they will pump your system down for 30 minutes. Maybe you can barter that as well. If you have no leaks, you can just use a $35 kit from Wal Mart to convert the system to R-134a. You typically add an oil charge (stuff that is designed to mix with the old R-12 oil) then charge 2 or three cans of refrigerant.

I have my own vacuum pump and have had good luck pumping vacuum for 60 or 90 minutes to boil out any moisture in the system before recharging. I'm sure I will have to some day, but so far, using this method, I have not yet had to replace an accumulator/dryer.

Instructions are provided with the kit. This is cheap, and easy, and I have had great success with it.

Ive just done a bit of reading on people having problems with compressor and other parts down the line via the conversion kits.

any comments on the alternitives i mentoined earlier

have to think about it vital what would ya charge me per pound or worst assuming mine is empty then throw in gas and it might be equal for me to just find someone here so not sure but will keep in mind

the only problem is when ppl dont completely switch oils. you need to replace the reciever/dryer, high/low hookups and the oil. and thats all. i just got done with my Air conditiong class, so im somewhat of an expert

so youre saying i just need to get the oil/r12 vacumed out at a shop? then buy new reciever/dryer /high/low hookups . what might something like that cost and is it something done by a lamen.

and then do the kit conversion and there would be little to no problems?

yes, you need all the r12 and r12 oil out before puttin in the r134a and r134a oil or else there will be problems.it should cost you less than $50 in parts. we just did my buddies 93 dakota and it cost around $34 for a reciver/dryer, and fittings. this is a really easy thing to do.

any step by step process with pictures you could link me to ?

mine still blows a bit cool, but definitely not as cold as I want it to be. I just called the stealership and they quoted me $65 per/lb...i don't really think I am more than a couple pounds under...but then again, I don't want to pay 65 damn dollars for just going from cool to COLD...so i dunno...how much do they normally charge for a shop to do the retrofit?

I did this just the other day my Burb (1991 Model) runs r-12. I took the test, they provide you with a PDF file with all of the answers. It is an "open book" test. I copy and pasted all of the questions and amazingly learned a lot. I recieved 24/25. I then printed out my "diploma" right there which has your license number on it. A lot of the guys on Ebay want that # before the will sell it to you. Phew

which brand of R12 on Ebay should i buy? do they still sell the hose nescesary to transfer the R12 freeon from bottle to my car

There is a special fitting that is needed to adapt from the conventional size fitting to the fitting on the low side in the car. I have that adapter, and R12.

If you're interested in making a road trip to Grand Blanc, I'll charge the system for $100. Considering it'* selling for more than $50 a pound, that'* a steal. You're probably completely out. If memory serves, the L27s hold 3.2 lbs of refrigerant.