92 SSEi flashing security light - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-29-2007, 12:45 PM   #1
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Default 92 SSEi flashing security light

I have a 92 ssei that wont start at all. It seems like the security systems arms and disarms fine. But whenever I go to start it it does nothing but the security ligt flashes on and off. I had a remote starter kit on the car but it quit working several months ago. I pull out all the modules and the bypass module but left the wires connected. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks Dennis
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:46 PM   #2
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Clean your key, or try another key
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Old 06-29-2007, 04:51 PM   #3
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The key is cleaned and I dont have another one.
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Old 06-29-2007, 07:30 PM   #4
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Plug the key bypass module back in or plug the ign cylinder wires back into the connector.

Many installers bypass the ign cylinder by installing the correct resistors to simulate the key being in. Sometimes they cut the wires from the ign cylinder.

You can see the wires, usually two white wires in an orange sleeve if I remember rightly, coming down the steering in column and plugging into a connector near the brake pedal.
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Old 06-29-2007, 07:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popatim
Many installers bypass the ign cylinder by installing the correct resistors to simulate the key being in. Sometimes they cut the wires from the ign cylinder.

You can see the wires, usually two white wires in an orange sleeve if I remember rightly, coming down the steering in column and plugging into a connector near the brake pedal.
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:06 PM   #6
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I have a 94 SSEi as well. Could I pull the tumbler out of that and put it in the 92 SSEi. If the 92 starts then ill know what I need to replace. There are both Passlock II, I believe. How hard it is to get the tumbler/cylinder out of the steering column.
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:31 PM   #7
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Well if the ignition cylinder is bad that might be worth the effort BUT i'd suggest you diagnose the problem first.

To check the key and the ign cyl, you need a multimeter.

First; Set it on ohms and them measure the resistance across the pellet in the key. In the link provided a few posts up they will be a chart and you reading must be in one of those ranges. If thats good then the key is good.

next find the orange wire coming down the sterring column to the connector, mine was by the brake pedal, Disconnect and with the key in the ignition measure the resistance across both wires. you may need to get some pins to stick in the connector so you can get a reading. If the reading is about the same that you measured for the key then the ignition cylinder is good. Plug the connector back together.

Let us know what you find.

I'm willing to bet you need to repair some wires that were cut for the remote starter that you unistalled. Check those ign cylinder wires and see if they are cut while you're under there.
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Old 06-30-2007, 12:43 AM   #8
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The odds of swapped cylinders working? Not that great.

The module is looking for a specific resistance. The cylinder has nothing to do with that resistance. The key does, but there are many possibilities. Don't waste your time.

Get the resistors from Radio Shaq, and bypass it correctly.

Do a search on our Forum on 'VATS bypass'. There'* oodles of information posted here on it.
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Old 06-30-2007, 01:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Do a search on our Forum on 'VATS bypass'. There'* oodles of information posted here on it.
Hmmm...Wonder what that link was that I posted above.
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Old 06-30-2007, 01:22 AM   #10
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Yes, and like I posted just above, there are also vast amounts of information on this Forum with regards to different techniques, methods, difficulties, problems, and solutions. This includes troubleshooting to determine for sure if this is actually the problem in the first place.

Including how to use a rheostat or potentiometer to determine the value. I'm very well aware of the numerous sites on the internet with generic VATS information, but sometimes personal experiences on the platform (H body) asked about are very valuable. It'* also nice to encourage people to use the search function to access the vast amount of accumulated knowledge and experience on this Site.
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