92' No Fuel Pressure - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-13-2008, 06:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harofreak00
can you hear the pump turn on when you turn the key to ACC? its a distinctive hum that will run for only 2 seconds

the pump is needed to get fuel pressure to the injectors. starting fluid is for carburated cars and won't help you a bit
Chances of blowing the pump in that fashion are pretty slim.....Otherwise pumps would be going out left and right from ppl running out of fuel.

Also, you want to turn the key to the "RUN" position....ACC will only turn on your radio, and unless you're on an AM station....you won't hear much of a hum that will match the fuel pump noise lol.

Starting fluid is a bad idea for any cars....if it backfires hard enough you could blow the intake/filter box apart (watched that happen once, it was pretty neat! lol) Using a lil bit of satrting fluid can help a lil bit with getting the fuel going again....does work better on something with a mechanical fuel pump vs electric. Best way to prime the fuel system is to cycle the key on and off.....Turn to run for 20 secs, off, runn for 20 secs, off....etc......do that 3-4 times and it should be pretty close to firing up.
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:24 PM   #12
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The starter fluid didn't work, I never believed in that bullshit to begin with. I pushed in the valve on the rail after I thought I primed it the right way and nothing came out. Not air, and not fuel. I wonder if my line is frozen. I had someone stand at the rear to hear the pump which did come on. I kind of doubt that the line is frozen though. I'm finna be fucked if I don't get this up and going tomorrow, because it'* valentine'* day, I gotta appointment to take the battery test for a post office position, I gotta get a fit for this party friday, I gotta get my earring fixed, I gotta get my hair cut. My girl drives the Aurora and she'* in nursing school so theres no telling when shell get out. the bmw is missing 2 wheels, and I don't have any reliable family members.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:55 PM   #13
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My ******* pump is dead. There'* no pressure at the rail, I don't hear the pump hum. I'm done with this ****. I am not in the mind state to change a fuel pump. I was just offered $600 for the car. I'm thinking about taking it.....Every 2 years my bonnie finds away to **** me off. Which fuse on the passenger side is for the door locks, so I can disconnect it and see if I can hear the fuel pump relay click on. The door locks and relay make too much noise to where I can't hear the fuel pump relay.

I tried the jumper, but I stopped since I felt that touching the jumper and the battery with a wire wasn't sufficient enough.
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Old 02-14-2008, 08:19 PM   #14
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this is just part of owning a vehicle, things happen

its an older car, it has wear on it

things go wrong even on brand new cars


will most likely be cheaper to fix than replace the vehicle

unless you know how to pick up good running cars for cheap in which always need a couple things done to them but is how ot get good cars cheap, in which i have done a billion times over the years now

3800 is virtually the most reliable GM ever, by far

is my all time favorite engine other than the old sbc engines in which also run well over 200k easily if taken care of properly

check the MAF on yours, but first check the FP relay, the relay is what clicks on the FP when the key is turned to run position, the ECM only will run it for about 3-4 seconds though, but only after you allow enough time for the pressure in the system to bleed down/off enough

both parts are failure prone

it wont start or run if either are not working/faulty

if you have hot power in the FP test lead wire under the hood and no pressure in the rail then most likely the FP has failed

its not THAT big of deal to drop the fuel tank, two bolts, a few lines, the filler neck

spray soak fittings and bolt threads through the supports they thread into, there is a hole next to the clip nuts the bolts thread into, you can get spray into them, use rust blaster spray, not WD40 junk, just in case they are rusted bad and so the bolts wont snap off on you

separating the fuel lines is really the only crappy part usually,
PB blaster spray them good, soak em, two wrenches with pipe on them for leverage, unless they are clip type(if you are lucky)

block up the back of the car and just do it

will be well worth it in the end

normally i get to do fuel pumps on the lift, but here is one that i did out here in the driveway haha and in those cars they are alot harder the filler neck is soldi steel one piece and the tank sits up on its edge and is a PITA to wrestle out and you have to rmeove the brace bar from under the axle and sometimes unhook the exhaust:






these FWD cars are very easy compared to most

how many miles are on yours now ?

if not over 200k all original then fix it and go




right now i am replacing the harminc balancer on my 92, it has separated and failed

next i am going to replace the fuel pump as insurance

and also the crank sensor while the balancer is off right now

weve replaced alot of engines, balancers FP'* and so on in these cars over the years

and changing the serpentine belt on these is interesting,
did a few of them this past year on these cars

on one of them the tensioner failed and caused the belt to wear a groove into the power steering pump housing, we had to remove and patch it and put it back on, that was right after we replaced the belt only

it sucks but things happen

taking the "easy" way out(selling the car may end up being a regret unless you are positive you will be ahead in the long run

unfortunately i have done quite the opposite with so many vehicles over the years, i kick myself so many times each day for so many vehicles i have sold or traded off

its a sickness, the thrill of it gets in your blood, making the deals.

hmm

ive probably had closer to or a little more than 200 cars trucks vans and so on since 1994..


right now i have a beater rusted out 88 toyota 2wd xtra cab pickup, i got it for free pretty much, and it ended up chucking the timing chain set due to failed hydraulic chain tensioner, so 40 dollars for a cheap timing set with tensioner later and it was fine, and its been two years since,
i had thought that the valves would surely be bent when it happened and before checking them out i was ready to haul the truck to the shredder
a few hours later i had the engine all back together with the new parts and other than some oil leaking due to the front part of the head gasket that sits on the top side of the tming cover missing now it has been fine even with a dead TPS and ECU temp switch, rattling top end, 147k on it now, frame rail on pass side rotted through finally and will last an unknown amount of time now, i have stuck a length of iron angle under it for now so the leaf spring haner bracket can sit under it instead of being collapsed into the inside of the frame rail

4 years of working this free truck has been way more than i could have ever expected, and here it is still the one and only foreign vehicle i have ever owned,


i put up with it and what it has needed and it has has more than paid itself off,

it has been the same with with so many other vehicles i ahve had in the past, plus ones that i bought knowing they needed a tranny or engine and that i stuck another one in and ran for a long time and ended up selling parting trading, when i didnt need to or shouldnt have, and would have run forever and were simple to work on


haha


goood luck!
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Old 02-14-2008, 08:49 PM   #15
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the reason I was just going to sell it because I did just get through changing the heater core now I have to do the pump. I would rather put my time and money into a ssei. And the dude that was going to buy my car had a park ave ultra for sell (dam I want that supercharger). The thing is that I don't like how the 93'* look. So most likely I'm going to keep the bonnie fix the problem and sell it for $1200. So I can put it down on a ssei. I'm trying to find a reasonably priced fuel pump.
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:25 PM   #16
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I heard a good tip from a radio mechanic talk show. He said he never changes a fuel pump without replacing the relay as well. He said if the pump has aged it'* pulling more current the relay is handling a higher current and the contacts are being deteriorated by it. He said the deteriorated points don't conduct as well and the next pump may die early because of the reduced current flow from the bad contacts.
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:44 AM   #17
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thanks people. I thought I saw a post about replacing the fuel with pics but I can't seem to locate it. If anyone runs into could you link me to it?
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Old 02-15-2008, 08:47 AM   #18
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I can honestly tell you that I don't recall a fuel pump relay ever failing on the forum.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ghlight=walbro
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:16 AM   #19
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fo sho thanks, just in case in case my baffle is broken or something and I need a new one, is it actually called a baffle?
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:52 AM   #20
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They are part of the tank. Not a seperate part.
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