92 bonneville starting problems - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-04-2008, 01:33 AM   #1
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Default 92 bonneville starting problems

Since I bought it it would not start after driving for any length of time. It would turn over fine, but not catch. After about a half hour it would catch fine. THe other day it happened again, only I haven't been able to get it to start this time (its been two days now.)

Any ideas?
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Old 04-04-2008, 02:08 AM   #2
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Ill help get you and this post going. First start out by adding into your signature the year and trim level of your Bonneville, that way we all know what engine you have and associated accessories that go with that.

For the issues you describe there are a few things to start checking.

1. when you turn on the ignition, can you hear the fuel pump running/priming?
2. When is the last time the fuel filter was changed?
3. can you check to see that the FPR is working correctly?
4. when it did not start did you try flooring the pedal? (this cuts off fuel during starting)
5. tried cleaning the MAF sensor?
6. Does temperature seem to be a factor?
7. Have you tried pulling any codes stored in the comp? (regardless of any SES light activity)

Other things it could be that come to mind: intermittent crankshaft position sensor, without this sensor the engine will not run at all, turn yes, but not run. MAF, vacuum lines.

Hopefully others will chime in and have more insight and suggestions.
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Old 04-04-2008, 02:17 PM   #3
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1) Yes
2) December (When I bought it)
3) No
4) Yes
5) No (?)
6) No
7) Cant

Its a 92 SE...I added that to my signature...

Thanks for the ideas...its currently sitting in a parking lot (now with a dead battery) and I need all the help I can get for this weekend!

Thanks for the response!
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Old 04-04-2008, 03:48 PM   #4
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Does it have a double cable on the positive post of the battery. Some later years do and corrosion builds up between the two layers of positive cables. Try cleaning the connections there.

I'm thinking it could be the crankshaft position sensor. It has age on it and probably lots of miles, although you didn't state them, I'd guess 150K miles?

Are you getting spark when it'* cranking. I realize it'* dead now and if you can jump it to charge the battery and have someone crank it you can remove a plug wire on the coil to see if you're getting any spark.

Then check at the exhaust pipe to see if any gas fumes are coming there indicating you're getting some fuel into the cylinders.
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Old 04-04-2008, 06:02 PM   #5
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Get the battery charged & load tested before doing any else. Many auto parts stores will do this for free. Before reinstalling the battery remove the bolts & rubber boots from the battery cables. Clean the corrosion off the cable ends with sandpaper or wire brush. Apply dielectric grease to help keep the corrosion from coming back and reassemble. We canít overemphasize how important it is to have a good strong source of power on these cars. Donít think the battery & connections are good just because the starter cranks the engine over.

Check all the fuses. Theyíre in three different locations, under the hood on the firewall & under the dash on both the driver & passenger sides.

Check for spark at each of the three front cylinders. If you have spark at 1 or 2 cylinders the coil(*) or Ignition Control Module (ICM) are bad. If none of the cylinders are sparking then check for 12 volts between the pink wire that goes to the ICM & ground. If you have 12 volts then the ICM or Crank sensor are most likely bad. Iíd say we see 3 or 4 times more bad crank sensors than ICMs.

Turn the key to run 3 times for 3 seconds each time & then check for fuel at the Schrader valve on the fuel pressure regulator (on the fuel rail some years). The Schrader valve is covered with a cap. The valve itself is like the valve on a tire stem. Place some rags under the valve & press in on the center while positioning your hands so gasoline canít spray you in the face. If no fuel comes out or just dribbles out then clean the ground buses & recheck. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=102 . I almost forgot Ė does the car have gas in the tank? Also pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator & check for gas in the line. If any is found replace the FPR.

Last test is for fuel injector pulse. For this test youíll need a #194 light bulb. Disconnect the wiring harness from one of the injectors, pull the wires away from the base of the light bulb & push the wires into the injector harness. The bulb should pulse while the engine is being cranked. If the bulb isnít pulsing then check for 12 volts between the pink wire & ground while the key is on. If you have 12 volts then unplug the throttle position sensor & recheck.

If the spark, fuel & injector pulse tests are all good then try unplugging the MAF sensor.

If the car still isnít starting then check the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge like the Actron CP7818. http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16174 Check it while cranking & then see if the pressure holds for 5 -10 minutes with the key off.

Let us know what you find & be careful while doing the tests that involve cranking the engine over.
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Old 05-04-2008, 03:04 AM   #6
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Just wanted everyone to know that your suggestions weren't being ignored. I just got caught up with other issues at work, etc so I haven't had the time to get back under Christine'* hood.

I hope to take a look again this week and will let you know what I find (or if I have other questions!)

Thanks!!
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