1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

4T65E hard shifting when driven hard

Old Jun 26, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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Just an update.....Took the tranny pan off and noticed just a few (hair like) metal shavings...I was afraid that I would find a lot, but didn't....I also inspected the filter and replaced it with a new one....Filter didn't look to bad......You know that it could be one in a million that a sliver of metal shavings would end up on my dipstick when I pulled it out...I barely saw any metal in the pan, nor filter.....The metal could of been just floating next to the dipstick when I pulled it out...Just for thoughts??

Here'* something interesting that I found out today with my OBD2 reader...My reader is one of those $100 cheapy scanner that tells you the Engines codes and has freeze frame data.......Anyways, when I feel that the tranny is shifting hard when I’m driving, I can also expect to hear the tranny pump whining.... So when I feel and hear this tranny acting up, I thought I would try to see if my scanner would pull any codes that were related to this tranny problem.....Of course my scanner can't read tranny codes that are stored in the memory of the computer...But.......It can clear codes...To sum it up, I can't see tranny trouble codes, such as P1811 (max adapt/long shift).....But, I can delete them!!! Right when I delete these unseen codes, the noise from the tranny goes away, and it shifts perfect!!!! I wish there was a way to turn that max adapt/ long shift stuff off...Maybe edit the computer??? When I feel the harsh shifting, I can guarantee you that those metal shavings are from harsh shifting....I know I'm not fixing the problem, but I'm preventing more of a problem........So I will just continue to delete these codes when I feel and hear the tranny acting up.. Ryan
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 10:41 PM
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Why don't you just change the EPC solenoid and be done with it?Its less than 100 bucks (and your labor) to peace of mind?
You've been lucky so far to have minimal damage, so don't tempt fate!
Just my suggestion
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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Is it hard to change the EPC solenoid? I will search for write up if anyone has one.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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Heres the major stuff:
1-half the frt frame has to be dropped(drivers side) plus the trans mount
2-lft strut and axle complete
3-tilting the engine and trans enough to remove the side cover
Theres a bit more than what i've listed but thats the bulk of the work.You'll see it all if you decide to try it.
I had a tranny shop offer to do it for 250 plus the part,but i did it because i work on cars( and i hate paying for work i can do)
I'd also just use the GM part,not an aftermarket.The side gasket is reuseable.
Good Luck
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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I only have one concern, I was told that I would have to disconnect something in the steering shaft....If I didn't I would damage something with the steering and the airbag wire in the steering wheel???

I just may save the $305 and do it myself...Thanks for the help!!!
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