It'* 14 for mine :?

I have decided not to take the chance of my gasket being non-original and/or non-reuseable.

Through the magic of internet searching, I think I found the answer to my own question:

See:

http://www.transtec.com/npa_trans/Trans-NPA0309.pdf

Since my car'* build date was 11/97, I will assume that I have 1st design (i.e., before the "mid-year revision") w/8mm bolt shafts, and that gasket 24204624 is the one I want.

wow theres no guessing what car you have down to ever option that was included....


back to topic..

The trani gasket on mine is a metal unit that is encased with rubber. It doesn't leak a drop. I've reused it 4 times already.
Whenever replacing gaskets, never oil them, alway install them dry and clean the mating surfaces with solvent to ensure a clean dry seal.
If you really want a positive seal with cork or even rubber, smear a very thin coating of RTV on both sides but just wiping a bit over the entire surface between your index finger and thumb.
You will have to pry carefully to break the seal when you have to remove it again but it will not leak.
It is imperative that the bolts are torqued to spec using a torque wrench.

The gasket MAY be original and MAY wind up being reuseable...but I figure I'm better off being safe than sorry. Last thing I need is to have the thing up on blocks, pan removed, find I need a new gasket, then head off to the local parts shop only to find that my options are cork or RTV.

I have torque wrench. A full set of FSM'* from e-bay are on the way.

its840,

GM was nice enough to put that sticker in...figured sigging it would help the gurus to help me! I haven't yet figured out myself what all the codes are!

If you haven't found it yet, techinfo has a list for the RPOs

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=13

It wouldn't hurt to put a little bit of petroleum jelly on the neck of the filter. It makes it easier to get out the next time. Otherwise its very easy to break the neck and thats always fun to get out.

Also, if you have to get a new rubber gasket, and you can't get the new one to seat because its all curled up, if you don't have RTV handy, you can ALSO use petroleum jelly as well for that. Just a very thin layer will make it stick. I have been told this by the GM garage that it will not cause any seal problems and makes it very helpful.

Like said before, make sure you clean the pan very throughly. Taking it inside and washing it and drying it doesn't hurt. Doing the same to the magnet. Also, make sure that the bolts and bolt holes are clear of any small debris like dirt or sand because that will prematurely wear the bolt holes in the very soft aluminum transmission casing. Just maybe clean them up with some WD-40 and a rag. I doubt this is a crucial step, but it never hurts to be careful. Also this will help you torque your bolts more accurately if there is no debris in the threads.

Also hah, if you've not done one of these, your arms and neck will get very stiff and sore. Also, those bolts are MURDER on your fingers. They get to a point where your ratchet is useless and you have to use your fingers. I recommend some gloves or something. My fingers had calluses from them Also make sure you have a pan wide enough to drain the fluid without spilling it everywhere. And make sure to have LOTS of newspaper down. It can become a mess REAL quick.

Good luck.

Off topic side note for the gearheads:
I have 19 pan bolts. Does the 65e have only 12? Just curious. I would automatically assume that the 60e has 19 as well.