3800 Series II Owners - Please Help ASAP - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-29-2003, 03:40 PM   #1
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Default 3800 Series II Owners - Please Help ASAP

Hi everyone. I had a problem with my car last week with the little plastic 90-degree elbow that runs between the intake manifold and the automatic belt tensioner assembly. It was cracked and was leaking coolant, so I had to pull the alternator and tensioner assembly to replace the piece. I've been working on it here and there between work and waiting for parts, and I finally have everything back together. While I was diggin into everything and the cooling system was empty, I figured I might as well replace the heater hoses and radiator hoses too, since they are all original with 160,000 miles on them. Last week sometime I pulled the heater hoses off from the heator core (what a BITCH to get down in there to them!!), and bought some replacement hoses and clamps.

Here is my problem... I am a retard and never marked down which port coming off the tensioner (front or back) goes to which port on the Heater core (top or bottom). What I really need is for someone with a 95+ 3800 Series II non-supercharged Bonneville to open their hood and take a look for me If you find the automatic belt tensioner, you will see 2 ports coming off the top back of it, with heater hoses heading towards the firewall. I need to know if the port more towards the front of the car, goes to the top or bottom of the heater core assembly.

My Facotry service manual doesnt show :(

THANKS!! as always!!
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Old 08-29-2003, 04:32 PM   #2
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Sounds like some more knock retard going on j/k

If no one posts by tonight, my friend has a 2000 GTP, but it'* SC'd. I'll take a look tonight and post back, if it takes the same route.
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Old 08-29-2003, 07:40 PM   #3
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Supercharged motors (L67) use different tensioners, and if I remember right, they are completely different as far as the outputs go so I'm not sure if thats gonna help.

With the number of people on theboards these days (comapred to a year ago), I was thinking someone with a 95-99 L36 engine would be able to look for me.

Maybe not :(
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Old 08-29-2003, 07:55 PM   #4
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Welcome back! Haven't heard from you in a while there. I wishj I could help out though. I had an Series II NA but its totalled now. My aunts car isn't here and don't know if here car is set up the same way. JR!!!! Where you at?
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:02 PM   #5
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Yup, I've got that picture in my '95 Factory service Manual too. Only problem is, on the actual tensioner unit on the engine, the hoses are not right on top of each other like the daigram in the book shows, they are more front to back. I got ahold of Lee (skza) and he went out and popped his hood on his '95 and checked it out for me, so I think we've got it right... The front outlet of the tensioner, up towards the alternator, goes to the lower port of the heater core, and the back output of the tensioner unit, towards the firewall, goes to the upper.

If anyone wants to confirm, it wouldn't hurt. Now if I can just figure out how to change the damn serpentine belt :( Am I looking at this right... Does a motor mount need to be removed??
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:29 PM   #6
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My car had that same 90 degree plastic piece melt a few years back. I couldn't believe it was plastic - had to replace it with a metal one. I've heard of quite a few of those melting on the Series 1 */C, but that'* the first I've heard of the problem on a Series II.
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:17 PM   #7
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Yep, that'* how the heater hoses are connected on my '98 SE.

And, no there'* no way to replace a serpentine belt without removing the motor mount, but it'* not that big of a deal to do. As long as you're in there with the belt and mount already apart, it'* also a very good/easy time to replace the water pump for about $40 more if yours is getting up in age.
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:25 PM   #8
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Thanks!!
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