3800 same in different GM models? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-26-2005, 02:33 PM   #11
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Thank for all the advice! I think I'll just go with the top end job for now. Now I need to hunt down a new machine shop. The one I normally use is going out of businees after 40 years, I found out yesterday. Its hard to find a good machine shop you can trust these days!

Anything that can be done on the '92 that can correct the valve burning problem?

John
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Old 02-26-2005, 04:32 PM   #12
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Maybe I'm not understanding this right, but you guys are saying to get a 93-95 engine because they don't get burnt exhaust valves, but then you're telling him it won't be a bolt-in applictation unless he swaps over his intake manifold. Now, I could be wrong on this, but won't that remove the EGR, completely ruining the whole point of going to the newer engine? And if he still does have his EGR, its not going to have wiring and stuff to make it work, so wouldn't wiring harness(es) and the ECM have to be changed?

Shawn
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Old 02-26-2005, 05:27 PM   #13
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He van use a newer motor... Without the EGR if he wants to... All the parts will be a direct swap...

Now if he wanted to add the EGR then he would also need the wiring harness and PCM...

Seeing that he will be doing the heads as opposed to the engine swap... I reccomend a Fel-Pro gasket set... Unless the dealership is cheaper... The gasket set will have the Valve stem seals, he will also need a new set of head bolts...

I will guess that the head work will be a couple hundred depending on what valves need to be replaced... If thats indeed the problem...

Its all in what he wants... And eventhough I know of some 3800'* 90-92 that have burned valves, most of the ones I have seen have gone well beyond 200,000 with no issues...

My friend drive a 92 Park Avenue that runs better than my 91 bonneville... He is only at 139,000 miles... Car runs like new...

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Old 02-26-2005, 11:05 PM   #14
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I called on the cylinder head work and it was priced at $330 w/o the gaskets and bolts. Went on Carpart.com and found 92 motor complete for $325. compression was said to be 180 on all the holes.90 day warrenty. the best thing it was located only a mile away from my home.

I figured it might not be a bad idea to replace the O-2 and crank sensor before I do the install. I read to stay away from Bosch, How is Napa?

Thanks John
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Old 02-26-2005, 11:53 PM   #15
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My son'* '92 SE now has about 280,000 miles on it. Engine has never been opened up. It IS beginning to get pretty weak, though. But 280,000 miles.....
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Old 02-26-2005, 11:56 PM   #16
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I think a lot of guys here have recommended the AC-Delco O2 sensor. In my town there is an ACDelco store; they sell the one for my car for $55, about the same as the other brands.
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Old 02-27-2005, 01:02 AM   #17
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Thanks............I'll go with the factory parts!

John
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Old 02-27-2005, 01:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbtk2
Maybe I'm not understanding this right, but you guys are saying to get a 93-95 engine because they don't get burnt exhaust valves, but then you're telling him it won't be a bolt-in applictation unless he swaps over his intake manifold. Now, I could be wrong on this, but won't that remove the EGR, completely ruining the whole point of going to the newer engine? And if he still does have his EGR, its not going to have wiring and stuff to make it work, so wouldn't wiring harness(es) and the ECM have to be changed?

Shawn
...did anyone say otherwise... I didn't see anyone recommend getting a 93 then swapping the intake.
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Old 02-27-2005, 11:09 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbtk2
Maybe I'm not understanding this right, but you guys are saying to get a 93-95 engine because they don't get burnt exhaust valves, but then you're telling him it won't be a bolt-in applictation unless he swaps over his intake manifold. Now, I could be wrong on this, but won't that remove the EGR, completely ruining the whole point of going to the newer engine? And if he still does have his EGR, its not going to have wiring and stuff to make it work, so wouldn't wiring harness(es) and the ECM have to be changed?

Shawn
...did anyone say otherwise... I didn't see anyone recommend getting a 93 then swapping the intake.
I was thinking along the lines of him getting a newer 93-95 3800, as the chances that any of these will have a burnt valve to be very slim... These motors all had an EGR... But he would have to swap the intake from his 92 to the newer motor, as well as the exahust manifolds to the non EGR set up... Plus there were some minor improvements to the 93 motor... So if he could find one it would have been worth the $25 gasket set..

The EGR'less thread was morte explainatory than anything.... If you kept a 90-92 L27 for a lifetime chances are that you may end up with a burnt exahust valve... That doesn't meant the engine won't get to 200,000+ miles.... I have seen too many go that far and beyone... But in the same note I have seen L27( EGR'less) and 3300'*( also EGR'less ) burn valve after 100,000... These are few and far between tho...

I just felt that if he could find an entire engine that had an EGR his chances of having a burnt valve in the future would be reduced as it always had an EGR.. At least this way her would get good life out of that motor...

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Old 03-07-2005, 12:54 AM   #20
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Got the replacement engine installed today! The only problem I encountered was locating the transaxle to engine bolt in the rear, the one that goes in from the right side. Used a 36'' extention and an 18mm "wobbly" impact socket to remove the bolt. When I installed the bolt I used some heavy grease, to hold the bolt in the socket.

The engine runs real nice............my weekend was well spent!

John
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