2500 RPM+ clicking? - Page 8 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-21-2003, 09:36 PM   #71
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I honestly can't wait to find out what they say tomorrow.(as I chew my nails off!) I will post as soon as I get in good or bad news. The new alternator will be a welcome site as well.
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Old 10-21-2003, 11:30 PM   #72
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Well I checked on the info about the cam and it was indeed outdated. It also has nothing to do with the valve cover :oops:. I'm not sure why it came up in conversation when I was speaking to someone about my 93. So that info is irrelavant.

My engine isn't in my car yet. I'm also letting a mechanic do the work on it since I'm not actually skilled in the hands-on part of automotive knowledge. I also don't have the time, but I don't have another car.

I will let you know the price of the Jasper engine itself when I get the bill.
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Old 10-21-2003, 11:38 PM   #73
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I checked on jasperengines.com and their list price (without special pricing) for a 3800 NA was $2408.75. The SC version was about $3200. Not great pricing for the addition of a supercharger. So there is your answer.
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Old 10-22-2003, 06:07 PM   #74
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OK here it is. WRIST PIN! That'* the golden answer. It also means REBUILD!!! I must say I'm pretty P.Oed too. I get the car back from the shop and now the oil pressure sucks! @5psi idle and 55psi with gas? I truly think they are out too screw me here! Any way, I need some advice on this. I know Dr.Jay has the "performance rebuild" thread but I'm looking for the regular old rebuild. Please help!!!!!!!!!
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:04 PM   #75
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A rebuild kit would be choice. Just point me in the right direction. I'm determined to get this car back up. I was thinking about the bearing issue as well, I must be losing pressure due to the near lack of one. It just seemed pretty dramatic a change so quickly. Yeah supercharger. On a brighter note, I got the new alternator on which at this point I could have just used as a paper weight, but hey one less issue for later.
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:27 PM   #76
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hmm...how did you figure out it was a wrist pin? Those are actually pretty rare when they go out. I found this statement:
Piston slap/wrist pin noise is not usually detrimental. Will it shorten engine life? Oh, maybe from 200K to 175K. It'* mostly just damn annoying!

But then I've also read that in extreme cases the pin can come loose and score the cylinder wall. Chances are, however, that you're going to have to bore the engine when you do your rebuild. The price for an oversized piston is about the same so its not a big deal anyway but the clearances on a higher mileage engine would usually warrant putting oversized pistons and rings in to keep from burning oil 5,000miles after a fresh rebuild. That doesn't mean that the pin can't score your walls too much for boring. I'd suggest looking into this more and see what the damage possible is. You may just be able to drive it around to wherever you need to go without much worry of destroying your engine. It may be annoying and/or embarrasing but it'll give you more time to save and do whatever necessary before the rebuild. I searched for a long time for the best deal on a rebuild kit and my conclusion is that there just isn't a good deal out there for the series I. Best I came up with is going to a local shop and asking what they would do the work for. I glanced at the cost of the rebuild kit for mine and it was about $500 minus oil pump and gasket set so roughly $650 in all. Generally they'll tack on a little as a "finder fee" but charge the most during assembly. I'll be back later to explain more I gotta pick the wife up.
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:42 PM   #77
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If I can get this done for about $2000 I'll be happy. I think between me and a couple of friends I can get most of this done on my own. I know I'll pay for machine work. Oversized pistons are a must as well. I do want to upgrade anything that isn't a huge differance in price and that'* compatible with keeping it mainly stock. Wrist pin is what the shop came up with. I tend to agree with jr's3800 on the bearing at this point though. with the loss of oil pressure from 55psi to 25psi at idle it sounds like a bearings about out. Especially with no visable oil leaks.
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Old 10-22-2003, 09:01 PM   #78
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It'* not embarassing at all. You can here it inside the cabin. I went back out and now it'* idleing at 49psi? The car is pointed at a sight angle with the front end pointed lower than the rear end?
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Old 10-22-2003, 11:21 PM   #79
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Honestly I wouldn't go to NAPA or anything like that for the parts. They are a PARTS based business so they will generally mark up the price of things more than other places. I'd first try finding local shops around town who make more on the service they provide. It shouldn't be too hard to ask a guy to look in his book for a rebuild kit and order it for some profit. Its no sweat off his back, hell its 10min to look up and order and once it comes in you hand him the cost + a little incentive. It'll probably save you an *** load. Best bet is one of these small little shops. I dunno check it out
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Old 10-24-2003, 03:39 PM   #80
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Should I replace the crank while doing the rebuild? Do you think in your experiance that it'* possible it was damaged?
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