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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-15-2009, 11:28 PM   #1
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Default 2 questions

96 Bonneville SE
1. How can I test the back windon defroster? When I pust the button on the heater controls, I hear a click under the passenger side floor. So I thought it is working. But none of the wires on the window will melt any of the frost. Can I check in the back where the wiring comes into the window with a test light in some way to see if I am getting a current to the back.

2. I have a coolant leak in the engine, and it is leaking onto the ground..... Other than pulling it all apart, How or what can I put into the radiator to stop the leak? Is 1 product better than another?
Thanks for any kind of info I can get.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:36 PM   #2
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Check the fuse for the defroster.

What side of the engine is the coolant leaking from?
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:41 PM   #3
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Look for the electical connections to the defroster grid, and check for 12 volts at the connectors with the switch on. Examine the grid closely to look for any breaks.

Fix the leak. Do not put the leak stopper into your rad. You don't want to mess up a clean flowing cooling system. Where is the leak?
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:41 AM   #4
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Default Rear window defrost

I posted about this earlier and tried what was brought up to me..... I checked the fuse under the driver side dash....... Its ok...... I checked and replaced the relay under the passenger side dash. I then took the panel off by the back window on the drivers side to expose the wiring for the window. I took a test light and put the ground on one of the door hinges, making sure I scratched it pretty good to get a good ground. I then touched the test light to the wires where they hook up at the back glass...... And nothing..... Do I need to check it with a volt meter, or should I have been able to see something with my test light????????? Any other places to check for a bad fuse or something...... HELP ME PLEASE.....
Also, If I try to log in while I am on AOL. It says to log in again. and I do and cant get in.
But when I am just on the internet and not on aol, I have no problems getting right into my log in. Is there something different to do when I am on aol?????
Thanks for help on both of these maters.....
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Old 11-17-2009, 01:18 AM   #5
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I would unplug the defrost grid wires and to a continuity check on the rear window defog grid to make sure you aren't spinning your wheels.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:37 AM   #6
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I merged your two threads. When you start a new thread for the same topic we lose the history of what has been done so far. Please keep posting in the same thread until this particular issue is closed.

You need to find out if it is a problem getting electricity to the grid, or a problem of continuity within the grid.

Back to the electrical connections you uncovered by removing the trim piece at the rear glass. With the rear defrost switch turned on, check for 12 volts across the 2 terminals. Now, disconnect the two terminals, and check for continuity in the grid.

If you get 12 volts at the terminals, and no continuity in the grid, examine the grid closely for breaks. I am not sure if your grid lines are sandwiched between two layers of glass, or on the inside surface. If they are on the inside surface you can buy a bottle of stuff you can used to repair breaks in the gridline. You just apply it with a fine paint brush.

If you don't get 12 V at the connectors, your problem is upstream of there. Start with the switch and work your way back through the wiring to see where the problem is.
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