Ok I'll test everything tomorrow and let you know what I find. thanks Dan

No problem at all.

I tested each wire at the PCM for continuity and each one tested ok. So now what do I do? My first guess is maybe the EGR isn't getting enough voltage to open? I figured that I would ask you guys for any more ideas while I have the PCM open.


98 SLE

You can test the wires on either end of the EGR plug for voltage. The solenoid will open with 9v, that'* how I test the solenoid. If you put a wire from a 9v battery to the outside terminals you should hear the solenoid click.

I tested the egr again and it'* opening fine, I'm guessing the egr isn't getting enough voltage to open for some reason.

The FSM says to check the EGR valve for signs of excessive heat. If so, could be a clogged cat. Also mentions checking the MAP sensor, this can cause all kinds of funny problems.

I did notice when I took the EGR out to clean it that there is a crack in what I think is the heat shield towards the bottom of the EGR. And part of the plastic body has also broken off. But it'* the ring at the very top of the EGR so I don't think it has affected the performance at all. And the engine light used to come on and turn off once a day, but since I changed my plugs 4 weeks ago the light has only come on twice.

Could you post up a picture of this? A crack in the EGR is a vacuum leak.

Here are the pics of what I think is a cracked heat shield on the EGR. Last night I tested the wires after I reconnected the pcm and only one wire had any kind of voltage and it is one of the gray wires,specifically one of the two wires at the very ends of the plug(the other being the yellow wire). I tested that wire to the black ground wire and not only did I have voltage but it also activated what I think is the IAC on the throttle body. No other wires had any voltage. The crack is between the plastic upper-body the lower metal base of the EGR.

Does the solenoid move?