1997 SSEI Rear Suspension Update - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-21-2007, 11:29 PM   #1
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Default 1997 SSEI Rear Suspension Update

Well I've been hedging on rebuilding the suspension but the CCR finally decided to start acting up, you know the drill, two little lights lit up the same time, code 26 - right rear ng.
The job went quick, 3 hours & 45 minutes. The lower strut bolts gave no problem, removed nut and the bolt came out with no effort. I read in the forum that one should be careful with the brake line, I found if you take the 10mm bolt out that hold the brake hose bracket to the body there is more than enough clearance. The time stated to do the job includes rust proofing the rear wheel wells, much easier and a cleaner job while the suspension is missing.
I picked up about 1 1/2 inch in ride height. The rear suspension is awesom now!!. It reminds me of my 1969 Grand Prix SJ, which of course was tricked out. I will be ordering all the parts for the front suspension on Monday. Here is a list of the parts I used.

Rear Struts (1) GM 22189459 FE2 FW1 Non Electric Control (package of 2 struts)

Rear Springs (2) GM 25523980 FE2 FW1 Code NYW Replaces codes NZB NZC

Spring Insulators (4) GM 25535044

Strut Bolt Nuts (4) GM 11516383

Strut Mounting Plate ( 2) GM 25619228

End Links (1) Energy Suspension 9.8105R

End Link Bolts (2) 3/8-16 x 3.5 long Grade 8 Zinc Plated

End Link Nuts (2) 3/8-16 Nyloc
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:19 AM   #2
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Bob..Those are no longer CCR right?
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:36 AM   #3
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Rear Struts (1) GM 22189459 FE2 FW1 Non Electric Control (package of 2 struts)
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:56 AM   #4
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Rear Struts (1) GM 22189459 FE2 FW1 Non Electric Control (package of 2 struts)
Thank you for the response Bill.. because they say non electric.. that doesn't mean to me that they aren't valved some other way that could still be considered a CCR replacement. Some of us would like to return functionallity if it became available.

Bob?
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:31 PM   #5
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Default 1997 SSEI Rear Suspension Update

Sorry for the delay in responding, the struts are non-electric controlled and are designed as the CCR replacement with the same valving and handling characteristics.
I will be installing the same style replacements in the front, can't wait because the rear feels awesom.Unfortunately I do not realize the full effect becuse the front suspension feels like crap now. Has anyone been using the McQuay-Norris FA 7247 32mm front sway bar bushings? I had replaced mine with the GM bushing and it is fine for awhile the they start squeaking again.
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:44 PM   #6
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Default 1997 SSEI Rear Suspension Update

Hi again, I forgot to ask, when replacing the front struts what parts have been found to be worn. My car has 94,000 miles and of course I will be replacing the struts, springs, upper and lower insulators, strut bearings. Have the upper strut mounts, bearing seats, shields and bumpers been showing excessive wear. I realize all situations are different but I am looking for the norm. I most likely will change the upper mount just because but the pricing on this stuff is ridiculous. I have looked at the Monroe replacement pieces ?
In closing has anyone had issues with the front lower control arm bushings?
Bob
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:56 PM   #7
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For your swaybar bushings got to Autozone and get Energy Suspension polyurethane. They're AWESOME and very reasonably priced. Do a little searching around to check the part numbers. You definitely won't regret it
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:59 PM   #8
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Old 07-22-2007, 02:24 PM   #9
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Default 1997 SSEI Rear Suspension Update

Thanks for the link Bill, that addresses some areas that would have come up. As far as the Energy Suspension Bushings response I did not find bushings that I thought to be applicable to our cars.
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Old 07-22-2007, 02:34 PM   #10
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Ok....here'* the deal (with ALL the details for 92-99, all models):

The link kit from GM is crap. Not sure when the change happened, but GM is using plastic spacers and washers on the new kits (verified in person at the local dealer). I think the plastic would give too much, and doesn't provide enough support for the insulators, especially on the firmer SSE/SSEi suspensions. Wanna firm up your ride?

Buy Energy Suspension kit #9.8120RC. This kit is for the left and right (front) endlinks. It'* complete with BIGGER than stock bolts (and shorter, thank god), washers, and POLYURETHANE bushings (insulators). I got mine at Autozone for about $15 for BOTH sides (in the same package....full front kit). Follow the advice previously stated in this thread for install, but the kit comes with good directions, too. You don't need a maintenance manual. Just a good set of ramps and basic tools.

Wanna do the rear? Leave it to GM. They don't sell a kit for the rear. Each individual piece (bolt, nut, 2 washers, 3 insulators) have to be purchased seperately. Combined, it'll run you about $25. I have a better idea. Buy just the BOLT from GM. Get 2 of the 10026678 bolts (trust me, you want new....don't re-use the old), should run just shy of 4 bucks each. Then go to your local hardware store and buy two 8mm 'nylock' hex nuts. Fit them to the bolts to make sure, and try to get stainless steel. Now go BACK to Autozone and buy the Energy Suspension kit # 9.8105RC Bushing set. Comes with 8 washers and 8 bushings (insulators). You'll have 2 extra of each. Cost me $9 (US).

I haven't done the rear yet, but I now have a better than stock kit ready to go in for less than $20 for the rear.

Here they are lined up (left to right):

Far left, new package, old front endlinks. Far right, new rear endlink 'kit'.


Enjoy. And thanks again to our Gearheads for starting this new 'trend'.
Just make sure whatever bolt you use on the rear doesn't have threads any farther down than the stock bolt (toward the head). The bushings will get chewed up by the threads if you don't carefully choose your bolt.
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