1997 HVAC hot air after battery disconnect - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-24-2008, 06:29 PM   #1
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Default 1997 HVAC hot air after battery disconnect

I just replaced the transmision in my sons 1997 Bonneville SSE. When I hooked up the battery to test the car, the temp display was blinking and I only have hot air from the vents.

It worked fine before. All the vents work. You can change from vent, to heat, defrost and etc. The temp awlays stays the same. HOT.

Is there a secret calibration or reset command for this? I saw some posts about doing it in a 1992 model.

This one has the digital display, auto or manual mode. The dash is analog with the digital HUD.

Any ideas?

Lannie

PS First front wheel drive car I ever did any work on. Tranny replacement was actually quite easy!
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:11 PM   #2
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I am 99.99% sure your airmix actuator is having an issue. It has become quite common to have an issue with the actuator after a battery disconnect/reconnect.

I would definitely try calibrating it first using the following method: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...or+calibration

If it still doesn't function properly, then you most likely have cracked a gear in the actuator and it will need to be replaced. If it does need to be replaced, do a search on "airmix" and you will find many write-ups on the procedure. Also, we'll be here to help you if you have any questions.

Also, in the future, make sure you turn the climate control system to "OFF" before disconnecting the battery, then reconnect the battery, then start the car. Once the car is running, then you can turn the climate system back on to "AUTO" or set a temp and select vent location manually. I began doing this so hopefully I don't mess up another airmix actuator, again.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:48 PM   #3
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Is it possible that a loss of vacuum could cause this one? I know that it will cause one of the other "doors" to not actuate where AC blows out the heater, etc.
It wouldn't hurt to do a quick check of your vacuum lines under the hood. Especially the one that runs to the vacuum box. Not sure where it is on a 97. It'* on the firewall of my 93.
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Old 03-25-2008, 12:15 AM   #4
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I tried the method of turning it OFF then redoing the battery. When I start the car it goes to automatic no matter what.

I did a quick trace of the vacum lines but after all the removal of parts and etc for the transmission I very well could have missed one.

I will pop out the glove box and see if the actuator arm is moviing or not. I found a link on here somewhere with a PDF showing exact step by step instructions today.

This is a great site!!

Lannie

PS My 93 SE had 298,000 on it when I sold it to buy a van. 3rd kid on the way. The person who bought it is still driving it and the car looks flawless. Got 354,000 on my S10 Blazer.
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:31 AM   #5
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Yes, pls disregard my post regarding vacuum. I know it is too late, but just in case somebody else is referring to this post. My apologies.

I found a diagram where the the air mix box is controlled by a motor (controlled by HVAC Programmer.
Also, I think you will need to go at it from under the dash. The backside of the glove box is blocked by solid plastic duct work, etc.

If you haven't already, do a search for AIR MIX. There is a ton of stuff on this problem. Some good pix of motor assy. at
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...tuator&start=0
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:14 PM   #6
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Yup. Hot and cold are controlled (blended) electronically by airmix actuator moving the airmix door between the hot and cold air feeds. The airmix actuator postion itself is controlled (commanded) by the HVAC programmer. Vacuum is used to control the doors for fresh or recirculated air and which vents the air comes out of, inside the car.

And yes, replacement of the airmix actuator is most commonly done from underneath the dash, but to help aid in trying to determine if the actuator is binding and needs relpacement, you can watch the airmix actuator rod move the door through a hole in the bracing behind the glovebox as you change temperatures. Any sticking, binding, or not moving of the rod as temps are adjusted is a good sign that an actuator gear has cracked.
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