195 to 180 Thermostat - is this normal?
#11
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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The motors were designed to be most efficient at 195. However SC'* build lots of heat and once you pulley...it'* a smoking motor. To keep it reasonable the 180 is necessary.
Most NA'* that do the 180 is in an attempt to keep the motor cooler and prolong the upper intake from getting brittle from heat and cracking.
Most NA'* that do the 180 is in an attempt to keep the motor cooler and prolong the upper intake from getting brittle from heat and cracking.
#12
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This may not relate since the cooling systems are somewhat different, but I didn't notice any significant impact to the cabin heater when I went from a 195 to a 180 t-stat in my Regal. Gas mileage lost a little, but the heater still blows plenty hot and it still heats up just as fast, it just stops at a lower temp. Air being exchanged across 180 degrees versus across 195 is not that much different, and both are damn hot.
#13
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Originally Posted by TheEngineer
This may not relate since the cooling systems are somewhat different, but I didn't notice any significant impact to the cabin heater when I went from a 195 to a 180 t-stat in my Regal. Gas mileage lost a little, but the heater still blows plenty hot and it still heats up just as fast, it just stops at a lower temp. Air being exchanged across 180 degrees versus across 195 is not that much different, and both are damn hot.
- It'* only 15* difference, BUT that 15* becomes MUCH more important when you consider that the heating/cooling difference is additive. The heater blower is re-circulating the cabin air (unless you have it set for outside air - unusual). That means that for every heating cycle, you are taking that cabin air (15* warmer than w/ the 180* 'stat) and heating it up again. Thereby raising the temp. another 15* above where it would be w/ the 180* 'stat. See how quickly this adds up to a much warmer cabin temp in a quicker time period?
The above example is just for illustration, as the 15* 'stat difference doesn't really translate into a full 15* difference in cabin temp. per cycle, but you see my point?
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Originally Posted by lash
OK, but understand that when it comes to heat exchange and the heating/cooling cycles in your vehicle, here are some factors to consider:
- It'* only 15* difference, BUT that 15* becomes MUCH more important when you consider that the heating/cooling difference is additive. The heater blower is re-circulating the cabin air (unless you have it set for outside air - unusual). That means that for every heating cycle, you are taking that cabin air (15* warmer than w/ the 180* 'stat) and heating it up again. Thereby raising the temp. another 15* above where it would be w/ the 180* 'stat. See how quickly this adds up to a much warmer cabin temp in a quicker time period?
The above example is just for illustration, as the 15* 'stat difference doesn't really translate into a full 15* difference in cabin temp. per cycle, but you see my point?
- It'* only 15* difference, BUT that 15* becomes MUCH more important when you consider that the heating/cooling difference is additive. The heater blower is re-circulating the cabin air (unless you have it set for outside air - unusual). That means that for every heating cycle, you are taking that cabin air (15* warmer than w/ the 180* 'stat) and heating it up again. Thereby raising the temp. another 15* above where it would be w/ the 180* 'stat. See how quickly this adds up to a much warmer cabin temp in a quicker time period?
The above example is just for illustration, as the 15* 'stat difference doesn't really translate into a full 15* difference in cabin temp. per cycle, but you see my point?
#16
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Lash...doesn't the system default to outside air? And you must choose recirc.
Anyway, for all those that didn't know already, recirc is your friend, for the reason posted above.
#17
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Nick. Next to the cigarette lighter in the dash is a little area with slits in the plastic. That is where your temp sensor for the ECC is located. Try and blow it out with some compressed air.
You maybe be surprised by how many dust bunnies come out. I followed this same advice (Mortehl too) and it works wonders when the sensor isn't insulated from the true temperature.
You maybe be surprised by how many dust bunnies come out. I followed this same advice (Mortehl too) and it works wonders when the sensor isn't insulated from the true temperature.
I have to admit that the car does warm up as everyone said it would, it seems that since the stat change the ECC temp setting needs to be about 6 or 7 degrees higher than what it was, I can live with that.....
thanks to all that replied......
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