180* stat (bad idea) - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-30-2006, 12:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheetah
Pep Boys has them.

Do what I did. You find the replacement for yours and then find one that looks exactly like it but at 180. That'* what I did. I am back up to a 200 because I am going to AK and I have not had my computer reprogramed.

If you do get a 180, IMO, get the computer flashed. The car see 180 and will burn a little rore fuel trying to get the car at 200. Not a problem. Little more fuel - Little more power
Every dealership will tell you that you should not use the 180F... Bla Bla Bla it will create problems....

The PCM is looking for better than a set value.. If memory serves the newer one may be looking for 160F... In my older cars they are looking for more along the lines of above 150F but even a 160F can throw the ECM/PCM in and out of open and closed loop if the temp dips a bit too low... But with a 180F this should not be a problem... If you installed a 160 I would reccomend that you have the PCM flashed for that... But not a 180... And again that depends on where you are... If you are going to be in a frigid climate I would reccomend keeping the 195F...

Both of my cars run between 178-182 generally with the 180F thermostat via the scantool.. Thats even with cool weather( Well cold to us anyhow like 30-40F)

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Old 03-30-2006, 08:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheetah
If you do get a 180, IMO, get the computer flashed. The car see 180 and will burn a little rore fuel trying to get the car at 200. Not a problem. Little more fuel - Little more power
do you mean an aftermarket pcm, or just unplug the battery so the pcm can reset?
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:24 AM   #13
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He means reprogramming or new PCM.

I had fears being in the Northeast about going with a 180 for winter. The 180 was fine and I had great heat anytime I needed it.
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:52 AM   #14
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In theory, the 180 should help the heater. The soon the engine gets to temp, and by that I mean the stat opens, the sooner the coolant "circuit" will open, allowing heated coolant into the heater core, thus heating the air.

My theory, anyways.....
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:00 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by MOS95B
In theory, the 180 should help the heater. The soon the engine gets to temp, and by that I mean the stat opens, the sooner the coolant "circuit" will open, allowing heated coolant into the heater core, thus heating the air.

My theory, anyways.....
The coolant circuit is always open and flowing. Unlike Honda'* we don't have any valving that stops the coolant from flowing into the heater core. The only things that keep heat from happening inside the cars are the blower motor and air mix doors.
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:06 AM   #16
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I'm sure a lot of you know this, but I believe it bears repeating: The thermostat controls MINIMUM engine temperature, but has little to do with maximum engine temp. If it'* really hot outside, you're stuck in traffic, or your cooling system needs work, the thermostat is really out of the picture at that point. I agree that a 180 is a good thing, especially since I get to sit in Houston traffic, where it'* as hot as Hades in the summer. Cooler radiator = cooler trans fluid AND a cooler A/C condenser, thus better A/C. ALL good things for me!
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:15 AM   #17
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And the interesting thing is while here in the north we think of the system as a heating system since we are cold so many months of the year.

In a case like Since62 mentions, it would be nice to have that heater core bypass that I have seen on Hondas. Why have hot coolant going through the airbox when all you need is cooling from the A/C.
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Old 03-30-2006, 11:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonnevillesSince62
I'm sure a lot of you know this, but I believe it bears repeating: The thermostat controls MINIMUM engine temperature, but has little to do with maximum engine temp. If it'* really hot outside, you're stuck in traffic, or your cooling system needs work, the thermostat is really out of the picture at that point. I agree that a 180 is a good thing, especially since I get to sit in Houston traffic, where it'* as hot as Hades in the summer. Cooler radiator = cooler trans fluid AND a cooler A/C condenser, thus better A/C. ALL good things for me!
This is the exact reason I use the 180'* here in Florida... The sping and summer and part of the Fall temps are murder for these cars... We have explained this mant times in the past and from time to time it does bear repeating.... Sitting in traffic long enough and you will still run hot... But if you are putting around with the AC on the 180 should stay at about 180F...

And my car also seemd to stay cooler once I added the AUX tranny cooler, tranny temps went down 60F and the engine seemed slightly less proned to overheating so quickly... Everything helps

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