[updated with new pictures] Replacing broke idler pulley
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
From: Wickliffe, Ohio

The problem I'm asking about is not replacing a pulley on my sperentine belt. The pulley in question is behind a motor mount. I would like to know the best way to go about this from anyone who knows or has done this on a Series 2 L67.
Ed
Ed
Hold on a bit, Ed. Let me call someone who has done this and I'll get you the info you need. I don't have an L67, so don't have the experience.... 
Edit: Give me another 30 minutes or hour. He'* on the west coast and camping, so I don't want to wake him up yet, lol.

Edit: Give me another 30 minutes or hour. He'* on the west coast and camping, so I don't want to wake him up yet, lol.
Originally Posted by lash
Hold on a bit, Ed. Let me call someone who has done this and I'll get you the info you need. I don't have an L67, so don't have the experience.... 
Edit: Give me another 30 minutes or hour. He'* on the west coast and camping, so I don't want to wake him up yet, lol.

Edit: Give me another 30 minutes or hour. He'* on the west coast and camping, so I don't want to wake him up yet, lol.
OK, didn't wake them up...they're too wired from Monster most likely, lol.
Anyway, Ed, bad news for you...
There is no easy way to get at that pulley. You have to get a jack and a large block of wood to put under the oil pan (you know, spread the weight so you don't dent it). Support the engine and remove the bolts from the frame side of the engine mount first. Then drop the water pump for access and remove the other engine mount bolts. From there it gets easy. You just remove the pulley and replace....then put things back together.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that'* from two folks (Echo and Boosty) who've done it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Anyway, Ed, bad news for you...
There is no easy way to get at that pulley. You have to get a jack and a large block of wood to put under the oil pan (you know, spread the weight so you don't dent it). Support the engine and remove the bolts from the frame side of the engine mount first. Then drop the water pump for access and remove the other engine mount bolts. From there it gets easy. You just remove the pulley and replace....then put things back together.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that'* from two folks (Echo and Boosty) who've done it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
From: Wickliffe, Ohio

Originally Posted by lash
OK, didn't wake them up...they're too wired from Monster most likely, lol.
Anyway, Ed, bad news for you...
There is no easy way to get at that pulley. You have to get a jack and a large block of wood to put under the oil pan (you know, spread the weight so you don't dent it). Support the engine and remove the bolts from the frame side of the engine mount first. Then drop the water pump for access and remove the other engine mount bolts. From there it gets easy. You just remove the pulley and replace....then put things back together.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that'* from two folks (Echo and Boosty) who've done it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Anyway, Ed, bad news for you...
There is no easy way to get at that pulley. You have to get a jack and a large block of wood to put under the oil pan (you know, spread the weight so you don't dent it). Support the engine and remove the bolts from the frame side of the engine mount first. Then drop the water pump for access and remove the other engine mount bolts. From there it gets easy. You just remove the pulley and replace....then put things back together.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that'* from two folks (Echo and Boosty) who've done it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Ed
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
From: Wickliffe, Ohio

Well I had my pulley replaced today and it only took 1 1/2 hours, After seeing how blued and burnt up this hub/bearing pack got I'm surprised it didn't melt more then it did. It is hard to see in the pictures but around the outside it says made in
I ended up having a metal pulley put on in it'* place. I also am giving the gator back belt one more chance before I no longer use one on my */C
Enjoy the pictures





The belt left melted peices of rubber on there that don't want to come off. The Gates brand belt that was on there held up very well for riding on this and the bolt head. Not to mention the few WOT runs it endured while I was unaware of this pulleying dying.

Ed
I ended up having a metal pulley put on in it'* place. I also am giving the gator back belt one more chance before I no longer use one on my */CEnjoy the pictures





The belt left melted peices of rubber on there that don't want to come off. The Gates brand belt that was on there held up very well for riding on this and the bolt head. Not to mention the few WOT runs it endured while I was unaware of this pulleying dying.

Ed
Well, I'm glad you got it all replaced!
I assume that everything is running fine now, right?
BTW, based on your comment above, it sounds like you have tried a Gatorback belt on your SC before and didn't like the results. True? Just curious.
I assume that everything is running fine now, right?BTW, based on your comment above, it sounds like you have tried a Gatorback belt on your SC before and didn't like the results. True? Just curious.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
iceburn2003
1992-1999
3
Oct 8, 2012 06:53 PM
GTX COWBOY
Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning
10
Mar 14, 2003 12:32 AM



