[updated with new pictures] Replacing broke idler pulley - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 07-25-2006, 06:53 PM   #11
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The problem I'm asking about is not replacing a pulley on my sperentine belt. The pulley in question is behind a motor mount. I would like to know the best way to go about this from anyone who knows or has done this on a Series 2 L67.

Ed
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Old 07-26-2006, 12:51 PM   #12
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Hold on a bit, Ed. Let me call someone who has done this and I'll get you the info you need. I don't have an L67, so don't have the experience....

Edit: Give me another 30 minutes or hour. He'* on the west coast and camping, so I don't want to wake him up yet, lol.
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Old 07-26-2006, 12:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lash
Hold on a bit, Ed. Let me call someone who has done this and I'll get you the info you need. I don't have an L67, so don't have the experience....

Edit: Give me another 30 minutes or hour. He'* on the west coast and camping, so I don't want to wake him up yet, lol.
Ahh go ahead, Bill wont mind you waking his *** up!!
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Old 07-26-2006, 01:31 PM   #14
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OK, didn't wake them up...they're too wired from Monster most likely, lol.

Anyway, Ed, bad news for you...

There is no easy way to get at that pulley. You have to get a jack and a large block of wood to put under the oil pan (you know, spread the weight so you don't dent it). Support the engine and remove the bolts from the frame side of the engine mount first. Then drop the water pump for access and remove the other engine mount bolts. From there it gets easy. You just remove the pulley and replace....then put things back together.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that'* from two folks (Echo and Boosty) who've done it.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lash
OK, didn't wake them up...they're too wired from Monster most likely, lol.

Anyway, Ed, bad news for you...

There is no easy way to get at that pulley. You have to get a jack and a large block of wood to put under the oil pan (you know, spread the weight so you don't dent it). Support the engine and remove the bolts from the frame side of the engine mount first. Then drop the water pump for access and remove the other engine mount bolts. From there it gets easy. You just remove the pulley and replace....then put things back together.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that'* from two folks (Echo and Boosty) who've done it.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Thanks for calling them for me. But upon hearing this and looking at that pulley (or what is left of it) for a good 20mins I've decided I'm going to have someone else do this although I could do this I just don't feel like dealing with the headache. Thanks again

Ed
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:02 PM   #16
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i recommend going to the metal Pulley as apposed to the plastic.....FYI
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Old 07-28-2006, 11:21 PM   #17
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Default [updated with more pictures] Replacing broke idler pulley

Well I had my pulley replaced today and it only took 1 1/2 hours, After seeing how blued and burnt up this hub/bearing pack got I'm surprised it didn't melt more then it did. It is hard to see in the pictures but around the outside it says made in I ended up having a metal pulley put on in it'* place. I also am giving the gator back belt one more chance before I no longer use one on my */C

Enjoy the pictures














The belt left melted peices of rubber on there that don't want to come off. The Gates brand belt that was on there held up very well for riding on this and the bolt head. Not to mention the few WOT runs it endured while I was unaware of this pulleying dying.


Ed
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:17 AM   #18
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Well, I'm glad you got it all replaced! I assume that everything is running fine now, right?

BTW, based on your comment above, it sounds like you have tried a Gatorback belt on your SC before and didn't like the results. True? Just curious.
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:06 PM   #19
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pics no worky
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