You assumed correctly about the bonneville. Since I got it this past spring, it'* needed only one thing - a new interior light door-activated switch. (Not the technical term for it, i'm sure, but you know what I mean) The old one had rusted stuck.

Wait, make that two things. It also needed a new anti-roll bar link - again the old one rusted off. But still, that'* only about $10-15 dollars in repairs for a car that'* going on 15 years old. Compare that to roughly $700-800 for a car that'* only 7 years old, and you can imagine how much I want to dump it on some unknowing teen.

Oh, and the thing also randomly dies. Once it did it after a quarter mile of driving, and once it did it about 90 miles into a 160 mile trip. It'* like the ignition just turns off. I wait a minute, turn the key again, and it usually goes. Sometimes on the highway the car suddenly cuts out for just a second, gauges drop and everything. Ooh yeah. As soon as I have the cash, i'm getting something else.

I feel better now. I've vented.

I get water in the trunk every spring - a few inches of it in the spare tire well. Nothing a shop-vac can't take care of, but I'd really rather not be hauling around a few gallons of water (well, maybe not THAT much...)

89BonnieSE89: if you have any luck with the seals, let me know. Curious to see how much that runs - agreed, highway noise is getting annoying. Mainly from the sunroof, but from the doors as well...

Will do! I was talkin to a friend and he said that I could get the body work, repaint, clearcoat and seals done for about $1500.

I hope this is not all

Once I find out I'll let you know

Repaint and clear coat.....for the whole car?? Really... Cool.

The body work u mentioned - was that for the seals on the trunk area, or all (doors, etc)?

I've had, over time, most of the car re-painted. The trunk is original, and it shows :(

I've got some rust bubbles coming up from the top of the windshield area (the metal right where the top of the windshield meets the roof panel). That was estimated at $600 2 years ago, and am afraid to see what it is now...

I should probably be more specific on the work at hand....

1. I have a bubbling rust spot at the top of the black trim on the driver side door.
2. The is a clear-through (ie past the paint) rusted spot on the front side of rear driver wheel well, its growing, and its gotta go.
3. The clear coat is peeling on the roof and it is really ugly.

The hood, front fenders and underbody, the grey fibreglass area, is brand new. So I want the rest of the car to match.

I'll buy the seals from the dealer, and have it installed at the time of repaint/clearcoat.

Its a project, I want to try and have the car look like it used to (ie brand new), I have posted some picks to give you an idea of the condtion of the car from various angles, maybe you have checked, maybe not, click on my sig and go to the Bonneville SE folder.

I have the same problem w/my trunck leaking too. There'* always a ton of water in the spare tire well. I thought I figured it out--looked to be coming from underneath the back window corner on the driver side. I put some putty in there-but it still leaks!!
Sucks because everything gets soaked!
I also have problems w/my driver side door pin switch. When I open the door it doesn't turn on the interrior lights either!

The door switch is a cheap and easy fix. Just unscrew it and put in a new one, about $5. Sometimes they can be unstuck, so you might try that first.

I'm always playing w/that damn switch to try to unstick it--I even lubed it-no luck. It doesn't actually get stuck on the exterior of the pin--the pin is always sticking out--just something internal I guess. I have to push it in and out like a dozen times for it to work--sometimes when I turn on the interior lights manually w/the door open--it'll catch that way and stay on(pin switch would work how it'* supposed to do--weird!)