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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-05-2006, 06:37 PM   #11
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shipping will unfortunately never be reasonable for an engine. Nor would anything other than LN3. I appreciate the offer, however.

Even if the cylinder walls are not so good.. wouldn't the compression still be acceptable?

To be honest, all I care about is getting the engine running, running good enough to the point where the car can be driven daily. And to do that in the cheapest possible manner.
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
To be honest, all I care about is getting the engine running, running good enough to the point where the car can be driven daily. And to do that in the cheapest possible manner.
Somehow with your method, I don't think you're going to get both of those. Running - yes, maybe... but daily driven - it could blow again at any second. Sure you can spend $10 to *get* it running... for 5 minutes...

Don't let me stop you from trying though...
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:00 PM   #13
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:03 PM   #14
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Yes please just swap another engine from a yard if you have a shop to do it in. How hard is $250 to come by? I would save your money and get a used engine that WILL WORK when you are done!
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:34 PM   #15
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repin: You have a valid point. It could run for 5 min.. or it could run for 3mo. Which is really all it needs to last. Because once I have a car, I can get a job. Job = money. Money = new car or parts for b'ville.

I don't mean to be a dick, but I don't have $250. I don't have the money to do this right. I have the money to hack some crap together that may hold for 5 minutes or 5 years. Although it is highly unlikely it will be a long lasting fix, it should hold together long enough to be worth my time. So can you guys just stop mentioning that.
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:30 PM   #16
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OSG, we find it extremely hard for someone to go that much length for a junked engine. Yer young, can't blame you. But even still, if you can't fork over 250 for a j-yard engine, how the heck you think you'll pay for gas? registration? insurance? Maintenance costs?
When I got my first job, I had no cash or transportation. All I had was junk in the back-yard. I had to have my parents and friends drive me to and from work till i could get enough cash to afford a ride. Even still, i needed parents help to get a ride, and keep it on the road. Heck, that was summer of 2004. I was 17. No different fro you.

Now, these guys are just trying to help you, we just want what'* best for you. We just don't want you to have to learn things the hard way, thats all. So maybe you can borrow the cash? From parents?

We just wanna help you, thats all. Hey, its your car, so do what you want with it..

Good luck.
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:40 PM   #17
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Well, I sympathze with your situation. I used to go to breaker yards to get wheel cylinders to keep my car running (or stopping). Thankfully, I can afford to buy new brake parts these days.

I think your repair idea will seal the hole. You just need to be sure that the bolts won't come apart. Loose metal bits inside an oil pan are a really Bad Thing. Had an oil pump spit out one of the gear axles after an engine rebuild and take out the block wall (Note to self: always replace the oil pump when doing a rebuild) If you use Locktite 609 studlocker, they won't ever come apart without heating. Clean the bolts and nuts thouroughly with brake cleaner, let dry, apply the Locktite and then torque tight. After 15 minutes forget about them coming apart. Make sure there'* clearance from the crank before you do that! You may want to use some gasket sealer around the bolts or you'll get a little oil leakage.

Oh yeah, I haven't rebuilt one of these engines, but some engines use one use bolts on the bearing caps. When you torque them up to spec, they stretch the right amount to lock in place. You may need to replace any bearing cap bolts you've removed. If you reuse a bolt that is not supposed to be reused, retorqueing it will further stretch and weaken it and it might break on you when the engine runs. That'* bad, by the way.. If you can reuse them, I'd use one of the Locktite products (NOT 609) on reassembly.

I've rebuilt small engines that have thrown rods. It'* amazing how much damage can be done when a rod grenades. There'* a very real possibliity that there are minute impact cracks in the block that will open up once it runs. There'* also a possibility that some metal bits got sucked up by the oil pump. That'* also a Bad Thing. Change the filter. After you run it for a few minutes, change the oil and filter again. Pray.

Getting a crank ground and a new set of bearings will cost you about what a used engine would. It'* wasted money if you dont strip the block down and hot tank it before reassembly.

We don't think about it much, but the tolerances and clearances for an engine to run reliably (or at all) at up to 6K rmp are mind boggling. I do a lot of machine work and regularly work to .001 tolerances. A lot of engine parts need to fit within a few thousandths or better. Doesn't take much to screw that up.

I really think you should make a bunch of calls to your local breaker yards and explain your situation. You want to talk to the manager if possible. You may well find somebody who will give you an engine for little or nothing. A lot of people will do a good deed if it doesn't cost them too much (and some won't if it costs them a penny, but that'* life) You got three offers of blocks from guys on this board already, so there'* hope

Got stuck in St Louis years ago when a bolt a stupid PO had dropped down a carbeurator finally pinged around and got stuck in an intake valve. No moeny. Crashed at my sister'* place, pulled the head and ended up in a shop in East St Louis. Area gave me the creeps in broad daylight, but the guys in the shop took pity on me and had the head fixed up the next day for very little $$$. Got the car back together and got home. Engine ran for quite a while after that too. Never can tell when you'll run into really nice people.

Paul
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Old 03-06-2006, 12:48 PM   #18
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Justin... They are trying to help...

Did you ever find out what caused that rod to snapp, along with the wrist pin and piston in several chunks?

If you were to JB Weld plates on there( And you know I don't reccomend that ) You would have to be totally sure that the rotating assembly will not impact the bolts.. There usually isn't too much room in the block for the movement of the internals... And then to replace the bearings and or get the pistons out the crank will have to come out... Getting the pistons back in there may be another story, and you may actually snapp or destroy the rings.. And I promise if you spun that bearing, any new bearing will be toast in a hurry if you do not have the crank turned down... and I believe that if you have to turn it down .020 the crank is basicly trash..

I hope something will work out for you Justin, but fixing that engine may be next to impossible..

Stll..Good Luck

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Old 03-06-2006, 01:11 PM   #19
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And to add,
If you were to pull the heads and install new pistons, you'd need to replace the head gasket, along with all seals, etc. Maybe you could get by with silicone sealer, but the head gasket? No way, the engine would not even run at all.
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:28 AM   #20
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Maybe you could work it off at the junkyard?
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