Transmission Problems. Please help. *FIXED!*
Originally Posted by jr's3800
If the fluid was full of bubbles, you either had too much fluid or too little...
When the fluid was warm and you shifted into every gear and then park was the fluid in the center of the crosshatched area?
When the fluid was warm and you shifted into every gear and then park was the fluid in the center of the crosshatched area?
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Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Originally Posted by jr's3800
If the fluid was full of bubbles, you either had too much fluid or too little...
When the fluid was warm and you shifted into every gear and then park was the fluid in the center of the crosshatched area?
When the fluid was warm and you shifted into every gear and then park was the fluid in the center of the crosshatched area?
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When Oldsman and I picked up his Black Riviera 4T-60E HD we noticed that the car would not shift into overdrive. So we check the tranny'* fluid level at the next gas station and is was a little over a 1/2 a quart short. Once we filled it to the appropriate level it shifted well again!
Ok sounds good, I will grab a quart tomorrow. The only reason its low is because the pan leaks. I will make sure to fix that when i do the filter.
I'm not REAL sure how 1/2 a qt can make a difference but hey its worth a try for now until i can afford to do the whole drain and filter deal.
I'm not REAL sure how 1/2 a qt can make a difference but hey its worth a try for now until i can afford to do the whole drain and filter deal.
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Ok sounds good, I will grab a quart tomorrow. The only reason its low is because the pan leaks. I will make sure to fix that when i do the filter.
I'm not REAL sure how 1/2 a qt can make a difference but hey its worth a try for now until i can afford to do the whole drain and filter deal.
I'm not REAL sure how 1/2 a qt can make a difference but hey its worth a try for now until i can afford to do the whole drain and filter deal.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Ok sounds good, I will grab a quart tomorrow. The only reason its low is because the pan leaks. I will make sure to fix that when i do the filter.
I'm not REAL sure how 1/2 a qt can make a difference but hey its worth a try for now until i can afford to do the whole drain and filter deal.
I'm not REAL sure how 1/2 a qt can make a difference but hey its worth a try for now until i can afford to do the whole drain and filter deal.
And remember it takes more fluid to fill the various clutches and circuits for ther trans to shift and operate correctly...
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Posts like a Turbo
Joined: May 2005
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From: Fredericton, New Brunswick.

Agreed. I remember when I was putting the rebuilt motor in a citation that i have. It needed a new radiator, and I had the transaxle removed anyhow. Well, it lost a significant amount of fluid. I filled it as much as I could afford at the time, and drove it for a bit. Man, it slipped bad. But once it was going, it went. Finally got lots of fluid. When i was checking the fluid after it was slipping slightly, it was in the cross hatched area. Filled it over full, and the slipping stopped. Btw, this was the Thc125 3 speed torque converter lock-up transaxles. Hydramatic.
I've also heard from gm techs to overfill transaxles by half a quart or half a liter. (something like that.)
I've also heard from gm techs to overfill transaxles by half a quart or half a liter. (something like that.)
So yours was a THM125L3?
Oh well, so I take it these pre historic turbo hydromatic transmissions love the right amount of fluid.
I didn't get a chance to get to the parts store today, but i will tomorrow. I'm being really nice to it (not ever bringing the rpms above 3k) and its shifting ok. I can feel its a little soft but its working out ok for now until i can do something good with it.
The plan still is, once I get the money, I'm gonna change that fluid and give it a new filter. That should do things up nicely.
Oh well, so I take it these pre historic turbo hydromatic transmissions love the right amount of fluid.
I didn't get a chance to get to the parts store today, but i will tomorrow. I'm being really nice to it (not ever bringing the rpms above 3k) and its shifting ok. I can feel its a little soft but its working out ok for now until i can do something good with it.
The plan still is, once I get the money, I'm gonna change that fluid and give it a new filter. That should do things up nicely.
Just for an update on the transmission.
Took the car for a nice sprited drive and came home, ran the car through the gears P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, D, N, R and P. Checked the fluid. It is currently the color of marachino cherries. No tinge. I'm not quite sure what I was seeing before.
I was reading my FSM and am beginning to think that it just very well may be the Vacuum Modulator. I know this was suggested, but now it makes sense.
But I have a question. If I replaced that, does it have to be adjusted for the right amount of vacuum? Because I don't have a vacuum gauge and don't know anyone that does. So can I just put another one in and have it automatically soften my shifts and prevent slipping etc?
Also, the current plan is...
I am going to do a fluid change in probably a few days. Even though the fluid is clean, it is due for a change. I am going to buy 14 quarts of fluid, lucas trans fix, sea foam trans tune, a filter kit, and a torque wrench to make sure that I don't mess up the bolts. (which i have a question about later in this post.)
1. Add Trans Tune.
2. Drive around for a little while.
3. Roll car up on ramps & undo all 19 bolts and drain fluid.
4. reinstall pan with same filter and same gasket
4. fill with 7 quarts of fluid.
5. drive around for 10 minutes or so, going through all the gears once or twice.
6. return to garage, drain fluid.
7. remove original filter
8. clean pan and remove all traces of gasket from pan & case.
9. reinstall new filter
10. reinstall pan with gasket
11. torque 19 bolts to 15 ft-lbs
12. refill to full with 7 more quarts of fluid with lucas trans fix additive
let me know if i missed anything
ok, now for that question on the bolts....
in my FSM it says that the bolts are only reuseable if the CONICAL washers are still CONICAL. Not flat, and not reversed. Otherwise it will cause trans pan leaks, etc. NOW, is this true or a bunch of hogwash? And if it is true, where do I get 19 replacement bolts and conical washers?
Took the car for a nice sprited drive and came home, ran the car through the gears P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, D, N, R and P. Checked the fluid. It is currently the color of marachino cherries. No tinge. I'm not quite sure what I was seeing before.
I was reading my FSM and am beginning to think that it just very well may be the Vacuum Modulator. I know this was suggested, but now it makes sense.
But I have a question. If I replaced that, does it have to be adjusted for the right amount of vacuum? Because I don't have a vacuum gauge and don't know anyone that does. So can I just put another one in and have it automatically soften my shifts and prevent slipping etc?
Also, the current plan is...
I am going to do a fluid change in probably a few days. Even though the fluid is clean, it is due for a change. I am going to buy 14 quarts of fluid, lucas trans fix, sea foam trans tune, a filter kit, and a torque wrench to make sure that I don't mess up the bolts. (which i have a question about later in this post.)
1. Add Trans Tune.
2. Drive around for a little while.
3. Roll car up on ramps & undo all 19 bolts and drain fluid.
4. reinstall pan with same filter and same gasket
4. fill with 7 quarts of fluid.
5. drive around for 10 minutes or so, going through all the gears once or twice.
6. return to garage, drain fluid.
7. remove original filter
8. clean pan and remove all traces of gasket from pan & case.
9. reinstall new filter
10. reinstall pan with gasket
11. torque 19 bolts to 15 ft-lbs
12. refill to full with 7 more quarts of fluid with lucas trans fix additive
let me know if i missed anything
ok, now for that question on the bolts....
in my FSM it says that the bolts are only reuseable if the CONICAL washers are still CONICAL. Not flat, and not reversed. Otherwise it will cause trans pan leaks, etc. NOW, is this true or a bunch of hogwash? And if it is true, where do I get 19 replacement bolts and conical washers?





