I have a sticker on the inside of my trunk lid that has a code for my security lugs. It has a phone number on it to call for replacements. But if you don't have the code, it probably won't do you any good to call. I don't know if they are even still available.
Did you lose the key socket or a lug nut? There is a spot in the jack box to store the key socket, so it should always be there. You should get that taken care of ASAP, before you have a flat or something. If you can't get replacements, it would be best to get a tire shop to take off all the security nuts for you and replace them with regular lug nuts, and do this before you really need to take a wheel off.

On those sticking brakes: Sometimes brakes will stick because the rubber flex hose from the caliper to the car body delaminates internally acting like a check valve. Fluid flows to the caliper under the pressure of the pedal, but cannot flow back sufficiently to completely relieve the pressure behind the piston causing the brakes to drag. This can happen from age or from a mechanic who twists, pinches, or stresses the hose when working on the brakes. A bad hose can look fine on the outside, but still be damaged internally.

its the security bolt

No bolt.


There is a security lug nut, one on each wheel, or the key that turns it. No bolt.

Doing anything else with the brakes is going to be tough if you can't get the wheels off. Did you find the sticker with the code?

okay sorry it the key as far as it goes for the code i have no idea but have no money to buy one so unless they give them away for free for your own protection im not goin to be able to get one so more or less im screwed

A junkyard may be able to sell you the security piece for the locking lug nut for not too much $.

The problem at the junkyard is that there are different key patterns like a burglar alarm key, it isn't a "one size fits all" key. You might get lucky and find one that fits. But that'* why I would go to a tire shop. i am certain this isn't the first time that someone has lost the key to their tire locks. I haven't checked to see if they are even still available, but my code sticker mentions to send money for replacements. So I wouldn't expect to get them free.
Being broke is a real drag. But here is the thing, if you are too broke to have a tire shop remove your security lugs, or you are too broke to get your front end aligned and your brakes fixed correctly, then how can you afford to buy gas?
I don't mean that to sound smart a**, but it sounds like you need to prioritize getting the car fixed as opposed to driving it to death. What if you had a flat while you were out driving around? You would be stuck since you can't get the wheel off. You would either have to have the car towed ($$) or drive it home on the rim, like the end of a high speed chase, ruining your wheel ($$$). As an outside observer, it looks to me like you would be money ahead to address the wheel locks first, then fix whatever else is wrong with the car, based on the excellent technical advice you have been given so far. Then, once you get things fixed and get the mileage back up, the gas you buy will take you farther.
I'm not picking on you, I'm trying to be brutally honest.

There is a bolt removal product that claims to fit any size bolt head. I believe it is called alligator grip or something like that. it has pins inside a socket, so when you push the socket over the security lug, it should conform to the shape of the ridges and grip it to spin it off. Or you might try Vise Grip pliers. Or let your "loving mother" know how bad she screwed up by throwing out your key, and see if she will pay a tire shop to take them off for you.

Yeah, the Gator Grip socket. Not sure that would be big enough, or strong enough, if the lugs are really tight.

I'd call around, see what shop will do the job for the cheapest. I'm sure that for them, it'* just a matter of putting a special gripper-socket thing on their impact, and powering it off. 5-minute job. I'm thinking $10...? Don't forget to call Wal*mart, too.

okay so ii think my maf and o2 sensor died on me i smell gas really bad from my exhaust and my car keeps wwantiin to die but when ii diisconect the maf she idles perfectly at 1000 rpms

Sounds like a bad MAF. Not sure why you say the O2 is bad too? Could be old and less than ideal, but it sounds like you found your problem with the MAF.