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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-22-2005, 10:15 PM   #11
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If you don't feel a loss of power at all, then it'* just the gauges, or something leading to them. I have my doubts about the ICM connector, but it can't hurt I suppose. Maybe a short somewhere? Those electrical gremlins can be hard to track down.

As for the bump, I agree with BillBost. Jack up that side of the front, and start wiggling things.

Bringing it in somewhere works too... Nothing hurt but your pride and pocketbook.
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:34 PM   #12
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I did have my tach drop off on one of my cars, but it was all digital dash, so when the tach would freeze, a few other gauges did too. Nothing loose, just a flaky car. It ran great except for that gremlin.
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Old 07-23-2005, 06:10 PM   #13
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Well, with the tach issues, the signal comes from the ICM. The ICM is what gives the RPM to the ECU, and tachometer. The Cam sensor tells the ECU when cylinder #1 is TDC [please correct me if I am wrong on this.. ]. So, that'* where to start. If the signal from the ICM is clear, then it'* time to work further up the wiring scale. Chances are if it were a connector issue for the gauge cluster, chances are the speedometer would go out too, because they are significantly related in their wiring and whatnot.

The thump has me.. maybe the CV joint? I'm not sure if it is your description that is vague, or what it may be. Suspension and cv joint whatnot isn't quite my specialty.
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Old 07-23-2005, 11:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
The ICM connector seems to be loose. Remove it, and clean the connection. Add some dielectric grease for extra protection. That should fix the tachometer drop. Since you said the car stutters as it returns, that'* how it leads me to believe that'* the issue. If the tach just dropped and the car'* performance was never affected, then I would believe it was a cluster or wiring issue.

As far as the thumping, I really have no clue. It could be related to the above issue. Perhaps a severe misfire? Not too sure, but start with fixing the tach issue, because that is easy enough.
For beginners, what and where is the ICM connector? The car does not stutter when the tach drops, i was going 80 while the tach was bouncing up and down tonite between zero and 4k. There was no stuttering of the car in any way, it was a smooth a ride as ever. As for the thump, I'm going to have it checked out asap, although it only happens occasionally, there'* no pattern to the sound or anything. I don't know what the problem could be, but I'll take a look underneath tomorrow after work.
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:48 PM   #15
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The ICM Connector is located where the coil pack is. Do you know where the spark plug wires are? Follow them to a large black rectangled object. Then look on the side closest to the radiator. There is a large [2-3" wide] connector.. that is the icm connector. I believe it has a 6 or 7mm bolt on it. You must loosen that bolt, and then the connector will be able to be removed.


-justin
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:07 PM   #16
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I agree with starting at the ICM connector and a little dielectric grease. My 95 had many gremlins that I fixed with a semi patented method of removing a connector, adding dielectric grease then putting the connector on and off 5 times. 5 is the magical number for enough movement to clean the connections w/the grease

On the bumping, when I had originally seen your post I wanted to say, open hood and let the cat out.

Most likely it'* just part of your steering or suspension getting ready to fail. I'd caution against driving fast or aggressively and have it looked at ASAP.
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Old 07-25-2005, 05:02 PM   #17
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Ok, so the car keeps running fine... May be that wire for the tach...

I agree, try the reinstall method for the ICM connector and see if that solves the problem...

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Old 08-06-2005, 12:06 PM   #18
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Well, got the car checked out this morning at Midas. I was hoping it wasn't too incredibly expensive, turns out it wasn't at all. Mechanic calls me into the shop to show me the problem and i'm honestly expecting the worst. He just shows me that the bushings on the left front sway bar were broken and that'* what was making the thump noise. I told him to replace both of them and i was in and out in about an hour. Total cost: $50. Thanks for the help guys
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Old 08-06-2005, 01:54 PM   #19
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Did he fix the RPM drops?
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Old 08-06-2005, 05:11 PM   #20
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No, but i'll talk to my uncle when i go home monday morning and he'll be able to fix it free of charge. He'* a mechanic and hasn't done me wrong yet.
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