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SES light, brake related

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Old 01-15-2005, 04:36 PM
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Okay, the brake related stuff, I took the car up just past 100 and blew each and every Wheel Speed Sensor. Not a single one of the things work. So, I have no ABS. No biggie, my ABS wasn't all that good to begin with. I also had my rear hard line blow out, so I know a thing or two about the TEVES Braking system. I also know how to turn off the power brakes if you want to try stopping a 3,500 boat without power assist. Trust me, it took about 100ft to stop from 30, and that was with me pushing with all my strength and it felt like I was going to bend the pedal. Not fun.

Read This Thread. It'* 5 pages of goodness. Got the skinny on what I am doing. I think the 3rd or 4th page has the pics of my engine and parts. If you have the time, I suggest reading it all, there is a lot of good info throughout that thread.


-justin
Old 01-15-2005, 06:02 PM
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I borrowed a gm dealer'* sevice manual and scanned the entire TEVES brake system section (90 pgs) including the diagnosis repair and parts diagrams.(plus the standard brake system info) If you have any specific Q'* i might be able to help you out. FYI in case you didnt know, the buzzing sound is a small electric motor and pump pressurizing the Accumulator (black ball thing) Every day when I start the car, the brake and abs lights come on and the pump runs for about 10-20 seconds.
Also, when the pressure drops slightly below a certain psi, the yellow light comes on and the pump runs, when the pressure drops a lot (downhill etc.) the red one comes on too. If they both go out after 10-20 seconds your system is alright, I have noticed that there is some leakage of pressure, as the ABS light will come on intermittently (along with the pump) while im driving. I hope this helped a bit
Old 01-15-2005, 06:17 PM
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Phoenix: Sounds like you have a leak.. I have the same pressurizing time upon cold start, but never have my BRAKE and ABS Lights come on while driving. I have tested the brakes very thoroughly [if you know what I mean ], and I have never had that happen. And BTW: The BRAKE and ABS lights come on at the same time when the pressure goes below it'* set PSI [i forgot what it was, but it'* in my FSM].

I too, have that section on the TEVES Braking system. Along with general braking [things that don't pertain to the ABS Functionality]. If you plan on doing any work with your braking system [electronically that is], and FSM is a necessity. My Haynes manual doesn't even give the slightest mention to the TEVES Braking System, so nothing really in that manual helps me with my Brakes. Except general knowledge, which I already know.


-justin
Old 01-15-2005, 08:45 PM
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Ok, thanx!

I´ll read the tread and see if I get any wiser

Sounds like you have quite some job infront of you with your brakes then!
Also notised that this car shifts from P/D/N to R a bit rough, nothing much, just a bit more than D, any idea?

/ Henrik
Old 01-15-2005, 09:11 PM
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Normal ****. Mine is the same way. Lemme guess, as the car warms up, it'* smooth as glass? It'* just normal. Try putting it in D then R and see if that smooths it out. If it doesn't, check your tranny fluid [you know, start car, run through gears a few tims, check, run through gears a few times, check again], make sure that is full. You may also want to consider a flush, or drain and fill [read up on current tranny articles, there is a major argument that goes down everytime it coems up. All the info is there for you to enjoy .


-justin
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