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Old 12-23-2005, 12:19 PM   #1
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Default Question: resetting codes?

First there is a chance my computer may be fried, someone took out an auto start and left a wire to dangle. Anyways, my service engine light has been on for a year. So finally a guy worked on the car, he disconnted the battery for 10 minutes, I still have the service engine light. My question is should the computer have reset itself or will it always have the light on? Personally (not know much about cars) I think I still have some problems with the engine.

Second question, one of the codes we got had to do with the MAS sensor. I know this is an expensive part, can I just go to a junk yard and get a used one? Is there anyway to tell if they are good or bad?
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Old 12-23-2005, 12:47 PM   #2
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You can get a junker MAF sensor. But it may be bad too.

If your light won't go out, it'* because you have a code that sets each time the ignition is turned on. Fix the problem, then disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to clear the codes. (10 minutes will usually do it, I do 30 to be sure). I assume you're using the jumper trick to get codes? That'* only current codes, and won't show history codes.
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Old 12-23-2005, 01:05 PM   #3
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I was stupid and went and had a diagnostic test done. Paid $70. So if I go down and do the by pass with the paper clip to get the codes, the only new ones should show up and once that is fixed and I disconnect the battery then it should cause the light to go out? In all honesty this car is a piece of crap. I know the guy that worked on it did a tune up ect but when I gave him the sheet from the diagnostic I had done it really didn't seem to care. He did tell me: my oil was gunky, transmission fluid was black and air filter was bad.
Some of my problems from the diagnostic test were: cam sensor, crank sensor, oxygen sensor, mass air flow, timming chain gears
codes
13 41 48 21 34

I know that is a lot but I am so lost with this car and it is the only one I have and have to get a little repaired at a time. Now I do have a read out from before the tune up of the PSI on all 6# what is that and what does it mean?

Also please forgive this stupid question but what happens if I don't replace all those sensors, are they there just to let us know the part is going bad or do the serve another purpose? Oh if you haven't guessed it I am a girl and have only learned a little about cars since comming here. Please forgive my ignorance. Lori
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Old 12-23-2005, 02:45 PM   #4
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With all those codes I don't think the car would run much at all. Sounds more to me like the PCM might be fried.
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Old 12-23-2005, 06:54 PM   #5
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Ha ha it barely does. I know chances are the computer is fried. When we drive the car for about 15 minutes, and try to get the speed to 45 or 50 the whole car shakes, if you take you foot of the gas, it stops but as soon as you put your foot on the gas it shakes really bad. The girl that had it before me didn't take care of it at all. I can't even tell you what all we have fixed already. At least now when it auto shifts into the next gear it doesn't pull back or just not shift. Now it seems to go pretty smooth. I guess I had a tear in the transmission gasket. I had a few holes in the gas line ect. I will let you guys know how it runs after we get the new muffler put on it.
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Old 12-24-2005, 02:14 PM   #6
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car wouldn't run with a bad crank sensor, or it would be hard starting, so you could eliminate that code from the list.
You could start by removing the maf and gently clean with alcohol and Q tip.
Then unplug the rest of the sensors and clean the connectors. The Idle air control valve should be cleaned also as well as a new PCV valve.
Then unplug the batt, clear the codes and see what you have.
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Old 12-24-2005, 03:17 PM   #7
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Disconnect the batter for a minimum of one minute.... But then the codes should be blanked.... These cars do not retain memory when the batter is dissconnected for more than 10 seconds if memory serves... But disconnect the battery for a Minute... And reconnect... Without starting the car, but with the ignition on see if the codes have returned, or are any diffrent...

If there are no codes, start the car and see if the SES light comes on again... If it does check the codes again...

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Old 12-25-2005, 06:59 PM   #8
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When I changed my cam magnet, and disconnected the battery to clear the codes, the codes did not clear, and the check engine light came back on intermittantly. I cured this by disconnecting the battery, turning the key in the on position to clear any reserve capacity in the ecm, and left it for the night. Havent had a problem yet.

Changing the cam sensor will not totally cure the code 41. You have to pull the timing cover off the engine, and replace it with a brand new magnet. You can see if the magnet is missing, bu taking the cam sensor off, and checking it with a mirror. You will have to rotate the engine till you see the plastic housing that has the cam magnet. These cars are known to fling em about every 100,000 kms, lol. If its missing, pull the timing cover off, and inspect the gears and chain while you are at it.
Then replace the MAF. Don't replace the o2 till the MAF or cam sensor problems have been fixed, or you might ruin the new one quickly. If this clears all the codes, then you are all set! Take it one at a time. you'll notice fuel economy is good once all problems have ben fixed, like 30 MPG highway, 20 city.
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Old 12-26-2005, 06:32 PM   #9
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Can the cam sensor be cleaned? So I should have someone look to see if there is a magnet there? Where exactly is the cam sensor? What about the crank sensor, where is that and can it be cleaned?

My gas miliage is really bad now, it used to be good. Now the car barely runs. I pulled it into the parking spot today and it stalled but that is nothing new. Thanks Lori
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:43 AM   #10
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Hmm, perhaps I was not clear enough in my last post.

Code 41, cam sensor circuit failure. This usually isn't a pull the sensor off and replace it job. Pull the sensor off, and look into the sensor hole with a mirror. and a good light. Have an assistant crank the engine, or turn the engine by hand, until you see a black housing in the timing gear. A magnet is supposed to be in this plastic casing. If its not there, then thats the problem. (jr's3800 has a better explanation as to how to find out if thats the problem.)

This really, is no job for an ameteur, as it involves taking the timing cover off the engine, and taking the timing chain off to remove the plastic casing, and replacing it with a new GM interrupter. When putting the chain back on, you've got to line up the timing marks and put the chain on. Its not an easy job, and even I struggled with it.
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