The TH125 is a different story. These things are darn near bullitproof when attatched to a 100hp four cylinder. Our trannies have a lot more engine to cope with and don't fare as well. On my 88 Lesabre the fluid was black at 210,000 when I bought it. The fluid is now red, and besides a rough engangement in reverse, it shifts better then both my 4T65Es.

-T

The Pan Bolts should be torqued between 12 and 13 ft lbs. Also, I thought the last time I changed the trans fluid and filter on my Olds it cost about $25 for the filter and that INCLUDED a new gasket(and not the cork type either)
If the trans oil looks ok to you now then I would wait a month or two until you get a nice warm spring day to do this job yourself. It'* really not that bad of a job EXCEPT when you drain the oil itself. It tends to get a little messy but if you take your time and not rush you can do it w/o any pain or mess. I would spread a lot of newspaper on the ground just in case the oil goes where you don't want it to go. Partially drop the pan on the drivers side first before you remove the entire pan. When you remove the filter DON'T use a Screwdriver to pry it out. GENTLY rock/twist it back and forth and it will come out. If you over do it, you'll snap the plastic neck of the filter. I know, I've been there. Most of the time the rubber grommet will stay in the port where the filter came out of. If it does DON'T try to remove it with a Screwdriver. Just leave it there and install the new filter into that port. Again, do this gently.
There is a more detailed write up in Tech Info on this subject and I would suggest looking there for the step-by-step instructions and How To. One other thing, don't forget to clean the pan and pan magnet before you button it up. And use Dexron III Transmission Fluid.
If you're concerned that you didn't get ALL the fluid out (and you only get half out when you drop the pan), I would do this again next year.