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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-17-2006, 04:03 PM   #11
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Default Re: THM-125

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Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
wjcollier07,

Are you still going to take it in to have the fluid changed? Or attempt it yourself? And you have the same 2.84 trans I have in my LE
Well at this moment I am not really sure...there is so much controversy over this whole take in/DIY thing...But because the pan is such a pain to take off, and put on and take off. So I will probably have it taken in for a flush + a filter change...when i have the money..and when the car needs it. The fluid is still happy... For the moment... So I will probably have it changed right before it starts to get really hot up here...im guessing late april/early may...

if anyone has anything more to add..please do. ALSO, what are the torque specs for the trans pan bolts?
I forget the exact torque but I think its 10 ft lbs... If the trans filter has never been replaced it may be brittle and when you go to remove it it may fracture into several pieces... Thats the only part I really hate and I have been there and done that more than once....

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Old 03-17-2006, 07:49 PM   #12
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The TH125 is a different story. These things are darn near bullitproof when attatched to a 100hp four cylinder. Our trannies have a lot more engine to cope with and don't fare as well. On my 88 Lesabre the fluid was black at 210,000 when I bought it. The fluid is now red, and besides a rough engangement in reverse, it shifts better then both my 4T65Es.

-T
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Old 03-17-2006, 08:58 PM   #13
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Default Re: THM-125

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
wjcollier07,Are you still going to take it in to have the fluid changed? Or attempt it yourself? And you have the same 2.84 trans I have in my LE
Well at this moment I am not really sure...there is so much controversy over this whole take in/DIY thing...But because the pan is such a pain to take off, and put on and take off. So I will probably have it taken in for a flush + a filter change...when i have the money..and when the car needs it. The fluid is still happy... For the moment... So I will probably have it changed right before it starts to get really hot up here...im guessing late april/early may...
if anyone has anything more to add..please do. ALSO, what are the torque specs for the trans pan bolts?
I forget the exact torque but I think its 10 ft lbs... If the trans filter has never been replaced it may be brittle and when you go to remove it it may fracture into several pieces... Thats the only part I really hate and I have been there and done that more than once....
The Pan Bolts should be torqued between 12 and 13 ft lbs. Also, I thought the last time I changed the trans fluid and filter on my Olds it cost about $25 for the filter and that INCLUDED a new gasket(and not the cork type either)
If the trans oil looks ok to you now then I would wait a month or two until you get a nice warm spring day to do this job yourself. It'* really not that bad of a job EXCEPT when you drain the oil itself. It tends to get a little messy but if you take your time and not rush you can do it w/o any pain or mess. I would spread a lot of newspaper on the ground just in case the oil goes where you don't want it to go. Partially drop the pan on the drivers side first before you remove the entire pan. When you remove the filter DON'T use a Screwdriver to pry it out. GENTLY rock/twist it back and forth and it will come out. If you over do it, you'll snap the plastic neck of the filter. I know, I've been there. Most of the time the rubber grommet will stay in the port where the filter came out of. If it does DON'T try to remove it with a Screwdriver. Just leave it there and install the new filter into that port. Again, do this gently.
There is a more detailed write up in Tech Info on this subject and I would suggest looking there for the step-by-step instructions and How To. One other thing, don't forget to clean the pan and pan magnet before you button it up. And use Dexron III Transmission Fluid.
If you're concerned that you didn't get ALL the fluid out (and you only get half out when you drop the pan), I would do this again next year.
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Old 03-18-2006, 12:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Keith
The TH125 is a different story. These things are darn near bullitproof when attatched to a 100hp four cylinder. Our trannies have a lot more engine to cope with and don't fare as well. On my 88 Lesabre the fluid was black at 210,000 when I bought it. The fluid is now red, and besides a rough engangement in reverse, it shifts better then both my 4T65Es.

-T
I have driven 4T65-E'* and can't stand how highly controled they are... Both my 440-T4 and 4T60-E shift better than the 65-E'* I have driven.. The THM125 I was thinking of was attached to a 3.1 V6, good little motor..

Friends GA( 86 3.0 ) is at 220,000 on the THM125... lol

Ol' Timer

I do agree that you have to be careful with the filter... On my 91 LE the fluid had been changed one time according to the writing in the owners manual... I think it had 24k on it and then fluid was never changed again... When I went to remove the Filter at 85k it was so brittle from the heat over the years all it could do was shatter.. It was bad... I never did break another one on my car...lol

For a catch Pan I love the Wal Mart Sterlite containers... Its very cheap and serves the purpose and saves a huge mess as well... For $4 I couldn't beat it...



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