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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-20-2007, 06:25 AM   #1
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Default Other cars with my parts?

Let me begin with saying this forum has been great with helping me diagnose and fix problems with my bonne before i got screwed thanks

that being said does anyone think they could help me out with some cars other than bonnevilles i can share parts with

and can i get a hydraulic accumulator from the junkyard, and does any one have a pic of said accumulator?
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Old 11-20-2007, 10:01 AM   #2
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Do you mean the brake thingeee?
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Old 11-20-2007, 05:34 PM   #3
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yeah the brake "thingee" I did one of the tests i found on the site and when im sitting in the car with the engine off but the key in the on position i can hear the pump run every so often about 15 min apart
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Old 11-21-2007, 03:20 AM   #4
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The brake thingee is an air pump and an accumulator (full of compressed air) Sounds like the accumulator is leaking down quite fast. You can find that system on other H-body cars from 88-91. Olds Delta 88 and buick lesabres used the system n those years. I scoured the local wreckers for a system and they were hard to come across. My pump motor failed and I just rebuilt the motor myself. . They wanted 600 bucks for a reconditioned unit so I bought a whole parts car for 200 with the system on it.
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:09 AM   #5
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thanks for the reply, and i know the function of the accumulator my major problem is, i dont know what the damn thing looks like, but im assuming its the black sphere about the size of a grapefruit located directly to the driver side of the brake fluid res.

are there any tricks to removing it so i dont accidentily break it
or do you have to change the whole master cylinder with accumulator attached?
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Old 11-21-2007, 01:19 PM   #6
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The accumulator is that black ball. It unscrews from the master cylinder. Youll have to depressurize it by pumping the brakes, then stick an alen key into the top of it and turn. I think that the allen key might strip so you could use a chain-grip or a strap based clamp. Be careful when you unscrew it because any pressure still inside could blow back. THeres should be only air inside of it.
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:40 AM   #7
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well i went to the junkyard today and found a number of cars with my model teves system so i had lots to choose from. iended up getting one from a caddy (there were some lincolns to but the acc. was buried so....) for $16 with a 30 day warranty. i just used a strap wrench to get it off and the one i found was still holding pressure

the results were good i have alot more stopping power now (couldnt get the abs to intervene before) and the lights stay off except for emergency stops (is it possible the caddy system is set for less pressure than my bonne?) so this is just a stop gap solution till i can afford a new one the good thing is that motor isnt running every time i touch the brakes so that should extend its life some
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Old 11-22-2007, 10:57 AM   #8
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The teves systems in caddys are exactly the same. Only thing I could imagine being different is pedal length, which doesn't do anything for you. Both systems run in the 3,000PSI range. There'* a tester for the accumulator, and a test for it... but the easiest way to test your brakes is to de-pressurize your brakes, ign off. Then ign on and see how long it takes for the pump to shut off. If it takes 15-20sec your system is still good, but weak [mine is 19sec], anything less and you're golden. Mine with 19sec works perfectly.. and my pump turns on frequently, like it'* supposed to, but ABS/BRAKE lights don't turn on no matter how emergency a stop I make. Clean brake fluid also makes a huge difference... I never tested the difference, but after a full system bleed/flush there was a definitive difference.
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Old 11-22-2007, 05:48 PM   #9
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i think im gonna try that (the test and bleeding the brakes) its just hard to find somebody mechanically competant to help me, I'll let you know how it goes in a couple of days, and thanks for all your help
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:20 PM   #10
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Also when you bleed the brakes, ign on for rear, ign off for fronts. I did both ign on, but waited until I got the fronts what I thought fully bled to turn ign on and cracked it once and it was definitely good. Easy way to do it one maned is get an empty can or bottle and attach a hose to the bleeder screw and immerse the hose in brake fluid. This is really only effective for brakes that have already been at least gravity bled [but since you didn't replace any brake components you are past that point. I've bled two cars completely one man'd, and both had lines replaced and still did it np.
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