one more bs problem - a slight update - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-06-2004, 09:27 PM   #21
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Bah, this just brings bad thoughts in. Is it possible that the center line will just be the only thing needing replacing? It sounds that doing only that won't be too bad. I would like to get some rhino ramps, so I can have the front and rear ends up.. I can't raise the rear end, because I broke one of my jack stands when the car fell.. :(. Is there anything in the FSM that will enlighten me a little? Or make me **** my pants in fear?


-justin
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:18 PM   #22
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Car sat overnight.. pressurized. I had just under a full MC when I went to bed, and now it is empty. Obviously there is a leak. I have disconnected the pump, so I won't be killing it, and I guess pearl will once again, be grounded for quite some time. Good time to start the top end rebuild though!


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Old 10-07-2004, 10:59 PM   #23
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If that has the Teves ABS, check the rubber return line that loops under the assembly. Is a common leak point when aged.

Otherwise, look for a wet tire.

If neither then check the brake lines if other things are rusty.
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:13 PM   #24
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I'll be looking into it this weekend. I have to move the car to get her on the plywood in the rear. I will go from there.. and take some pics. That way everyone will be on the same page as I am. But, upon inspection this afternoon, the WHOLE underbody was soaking with brake fluid.. so, the leak is something big, that'* all I know.


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Old 10-08-2004, 12:17 AM   #25
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I had a similar problem. I ended up having to have my steel lines replaced and also had to get the fuel lines replaced too. Once it starts it just keeps going. Funny thing though is that the car was never undercoated and it was pretty much rust free, except for the lines of course.
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Old 10-09-2004, 06:03 PM   #26
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ok guys, finally have the time to give my baby the attention she deserves. Got the rear jacked up, and assessed the situation. The line that goes across the chassis, from the proportioner valve, to what appears the RR drum is pretty rusted.. and its leaking right where the sleeve that goes over it is.. probably excess heat killed it. Then, the prop. valve looks like it was shot with a coat of rust.. although I think it will still be okay, we'll see if it holds up for the removal. Then, the that center line, which appears to go to the RR drum, the end of it, right on that last bend, where it connects to the RR drum line.. has some rust also, but is NOT leaking. So, sanding down and painting that line would help with some of the cost and labor. I, being me, a poser photographer, took a couple pics. And, of course here they are


As you can see, I should replace my rusty fuel filter!


Proportioner valve.. obviously seen better, rust-free days.


This is the center line I was talking about, all the way on the left, you can see just a smidge of the exhaust.. right there is where the sleeve is at, where I believe the real leak to be hiding under.


Just a better pic of the rusted line, the sleeve is hard to see in this pic too, but it'* there.


This is the other side of that center line.. as you can see, it looks just fine.. nothing other than good looking metal here.


This is that line, going to the RR drum, it is obviously a little rusty, but nothing too bad. Like I said, a little sanding and some rust should fix that right up. I apologize that I didn't get a pic of the actual line going to the RR drum, I couldn't see the LCD in any of the pics.. and was just going by, shere luck with the camera posistion.


-justin
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Old 10-09-2004, 09:10 PM   #27
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Yep... looks very familiar. My first leak was right at the reinforcing seen in the 2nd pic then it snapped where it goes up and over the exhaust. Because the valve is not bolted to anything, it'* very difficult to try and remove one line without disturbing the others. Plus there'* no room and flare nut wrenches are difficult to get on with all that rust. If you think the rest of the line will hold up, you can just put in a repair section. They come in lengths of 6" to 60". This is what I tried first...that'* when the rest of the line crumbled.

I think you have a big job ahead of you, pal. I'd first spray the hell out of the proportioner valve with PB blaster or some other good penetrating oil. Do this a couple of times before attempting to loosen.
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Old 10-09-2004, 09:53 PM   #28
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Went to autozone.. picked up some tubing [pathetic.. I could barely fit it in my mom'* car!], and a tube bender. I will go from there. I am thinking I will need more of something, but I will find out shortly I guess. The weirdest thing though, is I was returning the front brake lines [too poor to replace something not broken, and that visually looks good], and I asked the woman at the counter, after she rung up everything, "whats the damage" she said.. I owe you $9.55, that is a first! I have never gotten money at AZ! loL! Anyways.. I will be tackling this after chuch, and I will be sure to document everything as well as I can, so anyone else with this problem, will be able to easily fix it.

I have already sprayed some WD-40 over everything, and will do it again in the morning, and then again before I go to attempt everything. I think that will be enough, hopefully. Since the prop valve is just held on by the lines, I will try to remove it, and clean it up a little, and try my best not to disturb anything else.

Lets all cross our fingers for justin, in his attempt to fix his brakes, maybe even take her around the block tomorrow . Yeah, right


-justin
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Old 10-09-2004, 10:17 PM   #29
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WD-40 is not a very good penetrating oil. You are going to need to loosen 15 years of rust.
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Old 10-09-2004, 10:46 PM   #30
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Well.. It will have to do. If not.. well, I'll find out the hard way.


-justin
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