I have a 1990 SSE. It has ran good up until a few days ago. When i went to start the car it fired then stalled, fired then stalled. I managed to get it running moved it then shut it off. 8 hours later same problem but to my avail no start. It turns over perfectly. I tried the next morning and not even a fire. Its getting fuel. I then changed the coil. Still nothing.Pulled the plugs they are wet. tested the plug wires, no spark. So it now has a new coil, clean fuel system, but no spark!! ANY IDEAS would be great.

What do you suggest i try first? Crank Sensor or ICM. Should these sensor bring up a code? Or what can be done to test first?

service engine light did not come on. there are no codes.

First check for any "Stored" codes in the system. Try this to get them:
http://www.bonnevilleattitude.com/fo...topic.php?t=46

Once you determine if any stored codes are present, then maybe it will shed a little light on this situation as to where to proceed next.

But in any case the Crank Sensor seems a logical choice for being the culprit as it IS a common failure & IS cheaper than a ICM too.

Would take the module to AZ and have tested first, If anyone can R&R the crank sensor without pulling the balancer I'd like to hear about it (am good at the big breaker bar and starter method but that doesn't get it torqued back properly).

That said I have a Delco (three seperate coil) ignition that tests perfectly at AZ but will not fire on the engine. Take any test that does not involve a 3800 engine with a grain of salt.

checked for codes, nothing. Does a faulty ICM bring up a trouble code or not. I am going to get it tested tomorrow.

IMHO, if you've got what looks like a working ignition system that isn't firing, then go see what supposed to tell it to fire, and see if it is. So I vote for the crank sensor going bad (or, heck, maybe just a loose wiring connection _to_ the sensor). It'* not in a real friendly environment for working conditions, after all. I can't remember the last time I traced a problem to a computer or controller going bad -- the closest I've gotten to that is a bad connector _on_ the controller, from the usual oxidized-pins problem that also makes the gauges and displays start flickering.

I guess if you've got multiple suspects and no helpful troubleshooting guide in the manual for it, I'd tackle the possibilities in this order:

1) Check for error codes, if any
2) For anything that can be easily removed:
2a) Swap in a known-good one from a similar car, or
2b) Bench-test it if possible
3) If you're still no wiser, buy new components, starting with the cheapest or easiest-to-return components first.

Realistically, you shouldn't need to go beyond Step 2, but I know sometimes ya gotta just fall back and punt...

There is about a eight page troubleshooting guide in the factory service manual under "cranks but does not run". Is in secton 6E3-A of just about any FSM from 1988 to 1990 that includes the 3800 (Bonneville, Riviera, Toronado). Helps to have a DVM, scan tool and a pressure guage but can do with just a 12v test light.

Is even online with GM blessing now - see http://www.reatta.net/docs.html for access - but helps to have a broadband.

Sorry, I had a brain fart. Yes, the manual has a troubleshooting flow diagram for problems like this; I meant that if the original poster didn't have access to the manual himself, he'd have to try something else. Certainly if you can get the chart any way at all, do it.

ECM?