It doesn't matter what size socket is required to take it off, the crank pulley bolt torques to 220 foot pounds for 1986-1990 engines, VIN #* 3, B, & C.
1991 engine, also VIN C, torques to 98-112 foot pounds plus an additional 52-60 degrees of rotation (which will most likely require at least 220 foot pounds to achieve).
And as mentioned no special tool are required for this task, unless a length of pipe is considered special. The impact wrench makes it a lot quicker and easier, but don't let the absence of an impact keep you from fixing your car.

Easiest way to loosen the bolt is to brace the breaker bar (or 1/2" drive ratchet if its a good one) on the frame of the car. Remember the engine cranks clockwise. Then simply jump in the car, and tap the starter. Usually it barely takes half a second (the engine wont even have to rotate a full rotation). DO NOT START THE CAR - but that is self explanatory. This is the quickest and easiest way of breaking that bolt free.

Something unexpected happened that made it impossible to move the car to where I could work on it outside during temperature rises between winter storms.

While driving, I suddenly heard the serpentine belt shredding, but I expected that and had an old spare in the trunk to put on if it completely broke. A few minutes later the engine stopped running. It turned out that the HB and the belt were still barely working, but a belt shred had whipped on sensor wires, which pulled out and mangled a sensor plug, stopping the engine.

This was the upper of the two plugs on the right of the HB. It is a three wire plug that doesn't look like the Vin C four wire plug in http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/DSC00613.jpg Also the Vin C wires appear to have a protective flexible conduit around them, that I don't recall seeing on the Vin 3. What I saw was three exposed gray wires with female pins hanging out of an oval insert body. I couldn't tell if there was a missing plug cover, nor could I see any keyway. If I reconnected the plug pins with the wrong orientation, I might cause more damage.

I decided it was time to throw in the towel, and had the car towed to a shop. Unfortunately, this sensor plug mishap has doubled the professional repair cost.

The pro mechanic told me he had heard of this risk from a shredding belt. Had I known, I would have had enough time to pull over to the side of the road and snip off the belt shred(*) with scissors or knife.

Thanks to everyone for advice. That was an interesting tip about using the starter to break the 220 ft/lb HB bolt free.

Sometimes that is the best approach. Sorry to hear about your mishap.
Its amazing how much torque the starter (combined with the lever action on the flywheel) puts out. 220 ft/lb doesn't even so much as slow it down.

I am new to this forum and thought it would be OK to revive this thread. I have a 1992 Bonneville se that needs the harmonic balancer replaced. I was wondering if this model needs a puller to get the balancer off or is it slip fit? I was also wondering if one of the electric impact wrenches from Harbor Freight will work? (I think it has 240 Ft. Lbs) I am wanting to get this done in a smooth manner so I am asking before I start working on it again. I tried a screwdriver in the flywheel and I broke a socket extension (and my knuckle) trying to get the nut off. Am I right in thinking that the nut is right handed? Thanks for your help.

I haven't done a '92 but my Chilton'* manual says you need a puller for '92 and up.

Ok you DO need a puller for 1992. I went to harbor freight and bought an impact wrench rated at 240 lbs. It wouldnt take it off. I ended up with a good breakover and a jackstand to take it off. Its not hard to do if you have the right tools.

I thought I made that clear. It actually says you need a puller for 91 and up, which means that 1991 model cars and newer will need a puller.