No blue, white black or any smoke at all.
When under no load, at idle, it'* as if nothing is wrong........ idles smooth. in Park or Drive.
If I give it WOT at idle in drive or park. it bogs in drive or park. If it'* cold and I do this, it imediately stalls, when I do this a operation temperature and in gear it spudders severly and inches away very very slowly. The more I reduce the load on the throttle the less sputter and rpm I get.
It doesn't really matter the rpm'*, it'* more relative to the amount of load placed on the engine. In other words it'* worse in gear.
I can drive the car to the corner store and back as long as I take my time and place very little load on the engine.
As for Let'* say you were to keep your engine right smack dab in the center of this issue? 3,500-4,000RPM lets say. If you were to keep the car in 2nd gear, and stay there.. would the tach jump around? Would the engine'* speed actually be changing around? Does it perhaps jump in and out of gears too?
'll check that and report back later on today.

Thanks for your comments opensourceguy


Frank

Or... we could just eliminate fuel pressure first. The gauges are reasonably cheap - about $36 at Autozone - and do come in handy on these cars. I got mine off ebay for a little cheaper.

If you do find a gauge, be aware that you may have to mess with it to get a good reading. For some reason, on my car, I read no pressure when I had the fitting tightened all the way down on the fuel rail. I had to unscrew it about a half of a turn to get a reading (gasket still made contact at this point and didn't leak a drop). On the other hand, we did the same test with the same tester on Mkaake'* Lesabre, and it worked just fine all the way tightened. Just be aware of the possibility and don't come back here and tell us that you've got no pressure at all...

As a second guess, I wonder about the Throttle Position Sensor? But still - fuel pressure first, unless you've got a multimeter and Haynes/chiltons manual sitting around...

Let'* say you were to keep your engine right smack dab in the center of this issue? 3,500-4,000RPM lets say. If you were to keep the car in 2nd gear, and stay there.. would the tach jump around? Would the engine'* speed actually be changing around? Does it perhaps jump in and out of gears too?
I put in in 1st gear and also 2nd gear brought it up to 3,000, 3,500 and 4,000 rpm, kept it steady and the tach did not jump around, the engine speed did not change around no hesitation or sputter, and if it'* in final drive it doesn't change in and out of gears.

theJMFC I'll keep in mind your comment re the pressure gauge should I get a hold of one. And by the way I do have a multimeter and a Haynes manual. I got the Chilton'* manual at the library when I did the fuel pump. It has since been returned.


Just a thought......could it have anything to do with vacuum or mechanical advance, since it only happens when I increase the throttle, whether from idle or while in motion?

I got so depressed yesterday that I went to the dealer and priced out a new Bonnevile. OH MY GOD! there on heavy medication. I couldn't believe what they were asking. Now I'm even more depressed. They wanted to give me $1,000 trade-in on mine and made it sound like they were doing me a favour. I was ready to take em down.

I can't give up my Bonne....NOOOOOOOO!

Frank

There is no vacuum or mechanical advance mechanism on these cars. It'* all electronics - no moving parts.

The $1000 for trade-in sounds pretty good, really. I think that KBB on mine is only around $600-700. Of course, you're probably speaking Canadian... so that would change things.

Don't go new, it can be fixed. Probably for less than you'd pay for a month or two of "owning" a new one.

You say it doesn't hesitate or have any troubles when you manually shift it into 1st or 2nd? Is the tranny shifting too early when you stick it in Drive? That can cause it to bog down in Drive, but didn't you say that it will even hesitate and sputter while in P or N?

By the way... it would be helpful to us if you posted your car'* information (year, model, etc.) in your signature, just so we don't have to keep scrolling up to the top to see what you're driving.

theJMFC
Yes I was talking Canadian and I believe the reason for the high trade in was because of the high cost of the New Bonne. Frig.
No the tranny does not shift to early when in drive.
Yes it will bogs down in drive or nuetral but only when cold, when warm it doesn't bog anymore it changes to sputters.
Thanks for the suggestion re the car'* info in my signiture..........Done . My Bad.....Sorry Everyone.

Thanks for your suggestions

Frank

I could be wrong here.. but doesn't the car used loads more fuel with 3,000RPM under load, then 3,000RPM under no load? Fuel issues wouldn't occur at the same RPM, I don't think.

Good ol' FSM mentions something about the main ECU ground. I really highly doubt this, because the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate a lot [not just from engine RPM increase or anything like that.. just go from max to actual reading]. And since the ECU shares that same ground, I doubt that is it.

I think JMFC is right here, it is time to test fuel pressure. Canada doesn't have autozone as far as I am aware. If they do, they are scarce. Canadian Tire will have what you need. They are good to have around.. if you cannot afford one, buy it, use it, return it.

There is a lot to read here...

Did you eliminate vacuum leaks?

opensourceguy
The oil pressure gauge has been fluctuation for the last 3 years, usually under acceleration it registers properly.
I will try to get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge.

jwikoff99
Vacuum leak is a possibility, I checked for cracks in the lines although there are alot of them but it idle smooth. I would figure with a vacuum leak it would have a rough idle.
What do you think wikoff99?

Guys and gals.........I say gals cause you never know.......Please help me get this baby to 500,000 KLM,*

We Can Do IT!

Replace the cracked ones. It may not always cause a bad idle, because the PCM could adjust to constant conditions. When you change the conditions (use the gas pedal) that could change things.

There are no cracked ones. All the vacuum lines I checked were ok.


Frank