Ill try that method tomorrow and see what happens, that sounds like a easier way to do it than to drill holes in anything, lol

This is the recommended coolant fill procedure for a 1995 L36 motor, however is very close to yours for useful information. Check it out and see if that helps.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100

I do not find it anywhere near necessary to drill holes in anything, and besides, I dont have a bleeder valve on top of my thermostat housing.

I did a coolant flush after work today, used a funnel with a radiator cap, very nice to have when getting all the air out of the system, anyway, back to the topic, I talked to some of the techs, they said just dont worry about it, if the car doesnt run like crap every time the code comes on, and nothing is happening, then dont worry about it, dont bother putting money into it, its not worth it, but man the damn check engine light is SOOO bright and annoying at night it pisses me off, I cant stand it, your driving then all the sudden, BAM bright orange, screw that light Im fixing it, ill check for bad connections tomorrow, and see if I can look up some wiring diagrams and check the ground for the 02 sensor and PCM.

You might find this useful.








You did not mention a code 15 did you?

Very helpful thank you, but there is one thing though, my temp gauge indicates that Im running in open loop mode almost all the time, as the temp gauge never gets really close to the top needle, execpt for when the vehicle is first warming up, the temp will get all the way to the middle line mark, and then drop once the thermostat opens, then its basically open loop mode the rest of the way, I dont know why it does this, its not the thermostat, I just replaced that.

Rob, drilling holes in the tstat was suggested by a gearhead for a reason. We've found it to be beneficial on these motors for circulating the air out of the system.

Don't discount a problem with the ECT (engine coolant temp). Not sure how many your LN3 has, but my L67 has two. One feeds the gauge, the other the PCM. If it'* not reporting correctly, you'll get some funny side effects.

We need to find out what this problem is and fix it. If you're running in enrichment mode to warm up, you're going to kill your O2 (sounds like it'* already done) and your catalytic converter, and you'll get crappy mileage in the meantime.

Right, so what are you suggesting? I really dont have much experience with these motors, should I start with the coolant temp sensor/sensors? I think I only have one, but ill find out for sure. How do I go about testing that? That page above shows how to test for a Code 14, which I dont have. Should I try replacing the coolant temp sensor?

Check the resistance of the sensor, post the value in ohms here, and tell us what the temperature is there (if you haven't driven the car recently, the engine should be close to the ambient air temp).

You might want to comparte that resistance to your IAT. They should be close. Inspect the wiring to the ECT.

Can someone with an earlier FSM or car tell us if there'* one or two sensors? From the symptoms, I suspect the gauge and PCM use the same one.

I suspect your over-cooling is causing you to run rich, and you've smoked the O2. After we fix the cooling/warmup issue, we'll probably suggest you replace your O2.

Its 29 degrees Farenheit here, and should I test the resistance with the car acessory power on? How do I test the sensor, sorry I know super little about testing for electrical problems.