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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-07-2008, 08:37 PM   #1
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Default front passenger side motor mount help.

o.k so i just replaced the rear passenger side mount and now the fornt passenger side mount is due as there is hardly any rubber left

it looks like it will be hard to replace and hard to even get to the bolts to take it out.. i dont even see them.. and do i jack the car up from the iol pan to change this particular mount..?

any adice or help.. i really need it... thanks in advance..
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Old 02-07-2008, 08:40 PM   #2
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im not certain if its the same in 92, but if so, its 3 15mm bolts from the bottom. you get them thru the frame. and 3 more 15mm bolts that bolt the mount to the block. not too bad, im sure you will tackle it just fine.
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Old 02-07-2008, 09:03 PM   #3
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Default Re: front passenger side motor mount help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88bonnsse
and do i jack the car up from the iol pan to change this particular mount..?
If you have an engine hoist, then that'* better (use the lift rings on the cylinder heads) otherwise use a jack to take up the motor'* weight while the mount is removed. Pad the jack with a block of wood to spread the weight out over more of the pan'* bottom.
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Old 02-07-2008, 10:02 PM   #4
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thanks guys i think ill be fine..

now i need to know what to do to change my water pump.. it looks simple but i have two questions..

1-do i need to remove the pulley.? if so then how,?

2- do i have to draijn the anti freeze so it does not come pouring out the water pump when i take it off.?

thanks i cant say it enough.. this site rule'*..
i saved more money here then i did on my car insurance.... its the truth
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Old 02-07-2008, 10:30 PM   #5
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Yes and Yes to both those. There are four bolts on the front of the pulley connecting it to the hub. Before removing the belt, loosen the bolts (they are not torqued very hard and come out pretty easily.)

Before you remove the pump, drain the coolant from the radiator and drain the block as welll (knock sensor on one side, plug on the other.)

Once the fluid is out, you can take the pump off the timing cover and clean off the gasket. By then, you are home free.
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Old 02-08-2008, 01:09 AM   #6
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If the water pump bolts don't come out easily, hold the socket and ratchet on the bolt with one hand and use the other hand to tap the ratchet handle with a big box wrench or screwdriver handle in the direction of rotation the ratchet needs to turn to get the bolts out. That way the pulley will only spin a little. Changing the water pump is really pretty easy on these cars. At least it was on my VIN C engine.
I posted about mine here. Make sure to clean the old gasket material off the block and clean all the rust off the old bolts. Also be sure to apply sealant to the entire bolt when reinstalling.
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Old 02-08-2008, 04:40 PM   #7
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Yes, lots of permatex. Also make sure you get a brand new gasket for that WP... I'm pretty sure at one time my motor had overheated, and warped the hell outta something, because I could not get two other jyard wps to seal up good at all, new gasket and all... put on the old wp which leaks a bit outta the weap holes and first time was a charm. And I had cleaned all the surfaces to brand new... so idk what the hell happened. Just throwing that out there for ya.. clean the hell outta it all, because it'll just be more work in the end, and put silicone on the bolt ends because maybe half [?] hold coolant behind them.

Also, IMO disconnecting the Lower Radiator hose is the easiest way to drain the coolant.. If your hose isn't garbage, that'd be my first choice... otherwise you can just leave the coolant in there and just have what is sitting behind the wp come out [less coolant loss, if your coolant is good... it'll take <1ga that way, otherwise it'll take >1ga.
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:07 PM   #8
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The easiest way to get the bolts loose on the WP pulley is to loosen them while the belt is still holding tension on the pulley. The belt will keep the pulley from spinning while you're trying to loosen them.

Use a siphon to suck out as much radiator fluid as you can, but in any case you'll probably have to top off about a half gallon anyway.

Heres where I posted when I did it on my brother'* Olds 88: http://www.lesabret.com/phpBB/viewto...ght=water+pump

Edit: And the wiki (kinda like a techinfo article): http://www.lesabret.com/phpBB/viewto...?p=41228#41228

You shouldn't need any RTV or similar to get a good seal. The new gasket should be more than enough to seal everything. I also very strongly discourage using a junkyard WP as new ones are only $20 from autozone or similar stores.
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:29 PM   #9
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If you don't use RTV I can pretty much guarantee that it will leak. As has been mentioned, some of the bolts that hold the water pump on are open to the water jackets.

No need to siphon anything, there is a petcock at the bottom of the radiator on the driver'* side. Spin it open, and you can catch all your coolant right there in an old antifreeze jug or three. If you're in a hurry, then pull the lower radiator hose off for quicker results. I've found it'* harder to save the anti freeze with the hose removal method.
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:53 AM   #10
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ya bro... the petcock is a great way, but mine was more stuck than crap.. took me a good 30min to get that thing off, only to have the LHR hose get like .5ga more... so i mean, imo i'd just pull the upper hose on the wp.. that got me close enough myself... but it spreads, so it'* hard to catch.
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