yeah I bet thats what he did, because if there where another way it'd be the right way and the abs light wouldn't come on.


-justin

I just found out today that my anti-lock bulb was burnt out. After I changed it it did come on because I normally drive with the #8 fuse pulled. I know that I have sensor issues and can live without ABS but I'm more concerned with basic brake performance.

More than likely, that bulb is coming back out after I do pagett'* testing procedures.

Sounds like you have a confused ABS. 21 is the main valve and if that were a problem you probably would not have any brakes. 22 is Left Front Inlet valve, 35 is left front wheel sensor, 36 is Right Front wheel sensor, 47 is both rear sensors. 48 is three sensors not working properly. (see page 5E1-10 in the 1990 service manual for all of the codes).

If the ABS has been disconnected for a long time, I doubt that I would trust it. DIsconnected you have a conventional braking system.

The accumulator in the boost system needs replacement about every 10-12 years. If this is deteriorated, the pump will be working overtime. Replacement is about $100 inc shipping from GMPD and is about as difficult as replacing an oil filter.

Maybe just a confused ABS user What'* the code for "ABS totaly FUBAR"?

I'll probably change the accumulator 'cause for all I know it'* the original. I'll order it on Monday and post my results.

Thanks to all for the help!

When I was having all the work done on my car to get it on the road the ABS would kick in anytime you tried to stop. We found it to be the ring that is on the front axle that the sensor reads, cracked. Changed the one axle and it has been running great since Dec.

So you had to change the entire axle in order to change the sensor ring? That sounds like a lot of work. Apparently only one of my sensors is working.

Yep changed the driver front axle for the ring. It actually only took a few minutes to do. Well that was on a hoist with my friend ( the mechanic) doing the work, lol.