Aligning the crank sensor can be done without the alignment tool, but a little tedious. With the balancer and sensor in hand use a shim of some type to build up the interupter wheel so the sensor fits with a slight friction fit. I've heard of matchbook covers being used although I used layers of tape. The sensor should be loose in the bracket so it can be moved. Install the bracket with the sensor and slide the balancer into place so the shimmed area inserts into the sensor. Tighten the clamp screw for the sensor. Remove the balancer and remove the "shim" material, and reinstall. While the balancer is off check the two interupter rings to be sure there aren't any bent. The exact clearance is not important, just that there is always some clearance or it will destroy itself.

Its all back together & running fine again. Wanna know something scary-it had the stock timing chain in it still 253K miles and it was still there! A little loose, but not like youd expect for that many miles. Cam sensor magnets were still there & fine also. Damn, these engines are bulletproof!

I used angled feeler gauges to adjust the sensor airgap. I ended up setting it to about .020, that seemed to center it best around the reluctor ring on the balancer (plus its what I adjust the crank trigger airgap on the drag car). Another little tip I found was to mark the reluctor ring with a black marker. Then you go ahead & adjust the sensor, then rotate the engine over by hand & check the airgap in various spots to make sure everything is clearing. If the reluctor hits the sensor anywhere, it will show up on the marks you made on the reluctor ring.

Anyway, she runs a tad better than before. Thanks gang