1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Cold Start problems

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 11:24 AM
  #1  
Duke Orr's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Duke Orr is on a distinguished road
Default Cold Start problems

I've checked out the other "cold" and "no start" topics but didn't see a fix that fit my problem. As soon as the weather dips below freezing my 1990 Bonneville refuses to start. It cranks fine but coughs and sputters as if the spark isn't adequate or timed properly. The temporary fix is simple -just plug in the block heater for 1/2 hour and away it goes. Once it starts, and burns off the excess fuel, the car purrs like a kitten.

I have two other Bonnvilles, one that I am transplanting an engine into and another parts car. Yesterday I had both Bonnevilles in the driveway, I cranked the problem car until the battery died and it wouldn't start. I hopped into the one I'm working on and it fired up right away. I plugged the problem car in (along with a battery charger) and was able to start it 1/2 hour later.

Since I have a parts car available I am able to swap parts easily and, so far, have replaced the following items in an effort to solve the cold start problem.

ECM, Crank position sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires (new ones) and a temperature sensor. I read somewhere that the ECM uses the temperature sensor and the crank position sensor to determine the fuel mixture and spark timing during the cold start process so I swapped both, no improvement. There appears to be two temperature sensors on this car located beside each other, one has a two terminal wire harness and the other a single post threaded terminal. I changed the two terminal unit, does anyone know which sensor is used by the ECM? (Yes I plan on changing the other one now).

I haven't checked the fuel pressure, the car seems to be getting lots of fuel and I suspected ignition / timing was the problem but perhaps the low pressure will cause fuel to be delivered but the spray pattern isn't proper? Any ideas.

The strange thing is that the car starts and runs so well after a short period on the block heater.... Any thoughts

Duke Orr
Reply
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 11:56 AM
  #2  
Jim W's Avatar
Senior Member
Expert Gearhead
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 20,893
Likes: 2
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Jim W is on a distinguished road
Default

I never had any problems starting my 89 SE in the winter, You have a block heater? Might want to use that in extreme cold conditions and continue to use it...

hmmm, sounds like you covered a lot of items so far to this problem :?
Reply
Old Mar 8, 2004 | 06:02 PM
  #3  
repinS's Avatar
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
repinS is on a distinguished road
Default

I have some cold start issues (difficult cranking, initial rough idle, occasional stalling). Undiagnosed so far
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2004 | 02:37 PM
  #4  
Cash's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Cash is on a distinguished road
Default

I have a 89 SSE that began having the same problem during the winter of 1996. Luckily I had just changed jobs and moved to indoor parking. It acted like it was flooded almost imediately when trying to start at any temperature below about 30 degrees. Those temps last along time during the Minnesota winters. I first tried injectors since it always seemed to flood and seemed like gas was just dumping in the cylinders. I gave up and just made sure I didn't park outside when it was cold.

The problem continued for 6 years, and never got worse or better. Finanlly during the winter of 2002 in anticipation of my son taking the car to college, I parked the car outside and would change one part a day. I brought a bunch of electrical parts home from the junkyard and started with the ECM, and sensors and each morning it wouldn't start. Then I changed the ICM (ignition control module), and that was it. He has been driving the car for two years, about 20,000 miles, and obviously parks it outside all the time... and has not had a problem since.

I hope this helps.
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2004 | 09:54 PM
  #5  
Steve LS's Avatar
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 342
Likes: 1
Steve LS is on a distinguished road
Default

Did you pull the MAF from the good starting car and try it in the bad starting car ?
Reply
Old Mar 14, 2004 | 09:58 PM
  #6  
Steve LS's Avatar
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 342
Likes: 1
Steve LS is on a distinguished road
Default

Do the old parts back on the other car still allow that car to start well ?
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:35 AM
  #7  
padgett's Avatar
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 872
Likes: 4
From: Orlando, Florida
padgett is on a distinguished road
Default

You mentioned swapping the coilpack. Was it just that (six screws) or did you swap the entire ignition module (three nuts on bottom of bracket) ?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Crispy
GMC/Chevrolet Truck/SUV
8
Jan 4, 2014 10:18 PM
southernengineerin
2000-2005
4
Apr 4, 2010 07:19 PM
jimpamm
1992-1999
5
Feb 4, 2008 08:42 PM
nick s
1992-1999
13
Apr 22, 2006 10:40 AM
jeff
1992-1999
0
Nov 20, 2003 01:56 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:54 PM.