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Old 01-09-2008, 10:06 PM   #1
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Default codes 39 and 44. what do they mean..

i can find my doom for my scanner to tell me what the codes mean..

car runs but seems sluggish so i hit it with the code scanner because the check engine light came on today for the first time in a while... thanks..


if im not mistaken i think code 39 if my tcc.....
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Old 01-09-2008, 10:09 PM   #2
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http://www.lesabret.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1201

39- TCC
44- Lean exhaust

Changing the TCC requires dropping the transmission to be able to take the side pan off... Not sure about the lean exhaust problem though.
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Old 01-09-2008, 10:14 PM   #3
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can anybody tell me how to check out the lean exhaust problem.? thanks

car feels sluggish.. coiuld this have something to do with code 44.?
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:00 PM   #4
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found this online at.

http://www.misterfixit.com/code44.htm

( and everything in parentices is what oi wrote after each thing to check.. can someone help)


This is the description of a Code 44 as set on GM products It is an indication of a lean mixture as indicated by the oxygen sensor readings.

Circuit description: The ECM supplies a voltage of about .45 volts between the appropriate terminals of the sensor. (If measured with a ten megohm DVM, this may read as low as .32 volt). The O2 sensor varies the voltage within a range of about one volt, if the exhaust is rich, down thru about .10 volt, if exhaust is lean.

The sensor is like an open circuit and produces no voltage, when it is below about 360 degrees C, 600 degreeF. An open sensor circuit, or a cold sensor, causes Open Loop operation.

Test description:

1.) Code 44 is set when the O2 sensor signal voltage remains below .3 volts for 50 seconds or more and the system is operating in "closed loop".

Diagnostic aides:

The code 44 for lean exhaust is most likely caused by one or more of the following:

1.) O2 sensor wire - Sensor pigtail may be mispositioned and contacting the exhaust manifold. (i checked and its not touching nothing.......)

2.) Check for an intermittent ground wire between connector and sensor.

3.) Poor ECM to engine block ground.( dont know where this is) help.?)

4.) MAF Sensor - A MAF sensor that causes the ECM to sense a lower than normal airflow will cause the system to go lean. Disconnect the MAF sensor. If the lean condition is gone then replace the MAF sensor.( mine is new but i will check it out tomorrow and post back...))

5.) Vacuum leaks can cause a lean condition and/or possibly a high idle. Check for cracked hoses a bad gasket or a faulty EGR or PCV Valve.(i have a very high idle and i do not no where i shold check . what hoses do i check.? what gasket.? and where is the egr and pvc valve again.? and how do i check them.?))

6.) fuel pressure - system will go lean, if pressure is too low. It may be necessary to monitor fuel pressure while driving the car at various road speeds and/or loads to confirm.(( how do i do this.? )

7.) Clogged injector or lean injector - perform an injector balance test..( what.?)

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Old 01-10-2008, 01:20 PM   #5
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Allright, let me give this a shot:

Test description:

"1.) Code 44 is set when the O2 sensor signal voltage remains below .3 volts for 50 seconds or more and the system is operating in "closed loop" "

First off, its pulling a code relating to your O2 sensor. How old is your sensor? What brand? Is it Bosch? If its Bosch, then I'd say replace it with Denso or AC Delco and that might fix your problem.

"Diagnostic aides:

The code 44 for lean exhaust is most likely caused by one or more of the following:

1.) O2 sensor wire - Sensor pigtail may be mispositioned and contacting the exhaust manifold. (i checked and its not touching nothing.......)"

Again, issues with the O2...

"2.) Check for an intermittent ground wire between connector and sensor."

This isn't really likely... the O2 has one wire that would have to be grounding itself out on on somewhere, like a pinch or something.

"3.) Poor ECM to engine block ground.( dont know where this is) help.?)"

The ECM ground is (I think) on the bolt on the engine block under the ICM. Its the same bolt that the negative battery terminal grounds on.

"4.) MAF Sensor - A MAF sensor that causes the ECM to sense a lower than normal airflow will cause the system to go lean. Disconnect the MAF sensor. If the lean condition is gone then replace the MAF sensor.( mine is new but i will check it out tomorrow and post back...))"

If yours is new, then it should be OK, unless you got a crappy sensor. Who was the vendor? Is it an AC Delco part or some aftermarket part? Does the engine run any different when you remove the wire harness from the sensor? If it doesn't change, then the sensor is probably faulty.

"5.) Vacuum leaks can cause a lean condition and/or possibly a high idle. Check for cracked hoses a bad gasket or a faulty EGR or PCV Valve.(i have a very high idle and i do not no where i shold check . what hoses do i check.? what gasket.? and where is the egr and pvc valve again.? and how do i check them.?))"

High Idle? Thats not good... your best friend is going to be a can of carb cleaner. Find all your vacuum lines (rubber sections of line, sometimes connecting plastic sections, the rubber breaks down over time and cracks allowing leaks) and spray each one down with the carb cleaner. If the idle changes, then you found your leak.

The EGR is under the round black cap on the top of the motor near the firewall on the brake booster side of the motor. If you are to pop the cap off, the valve consists of three solenoids. Spray the base of the valve around the gasket seating area.

The PCV valve is your positive crankcase ventilation valve and is located near the UIM, near the power steering pump, and under a bunch of harnesses. Its a bit hard to find but if you do a search I'm sure a better description will pop up.

Also, consider cleaning your intake, as your IAC (idle air control) might be clogged, causing the high idel: http://www.lesabret.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=4054

"6.) fuel pressure - system will go lean, if pressure is too low. It may be necessary to monitor fuel pressure while driving the car at various road speeds and/or loads to confirm.(( how do i do this.? Shocked )"

This is easy. First, rent (autozone) or buy a fuel pressure gauge. It screws directly into the shrader valve on the fuel rail. If pressure is too low, then either your pump is weak, your filter is full of crap, or your pressure regulator is faulty. Search the forums for more information.

"7.) Clogged injector or lean injector - perform an injector balance test..( what.?) "

No clue what the balance test is, but it probably involves removing the injectors and testing how well they spray... I wouldn't do this If I were you but I would run a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel cleaner through your system. This should be done every 3k miles or so.... the stuff is a bit expensive ($6 for a little bottle) but it works well.

Heres the order in which I'd check this stuff:

1. O2. If its Bosch, replace it regardless of miles/condition.
2. Dump in a bottle of Chevron Techron.
3. Clean your intake/IAC.
4. Replace worn out rubber vacuum lines (super cheap, a foot of line is a couple bucks at most).
5. Spray down your EGR, PCV, and vacuum fittings to test for leaks.
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alibi

No clue what the balance test is, but it probably involves removing the injectors and testing how well they spray... I wouldn't do this If I were you but I would run a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel cleaner through your system. This should be done every 3k miles or so.... the stuff is a bit expensive ($6 for a little bottle) but it works well.

Heres the order in which I'd check this stuff:

1. O2. If its Bosch, replace it regardless of miles/condition.
2. Dump in a bottle of Chevron Techron.
3. Clean your intake/IAC.
4. Replace worn out rubber vacuum lines (super cheap, a foot of line is a couple bucks at most).
5. Spray down your EGR, PCV, and vacuum fittings to test for leaks.

o2 is denso and is 5 months old..
my iac is new and only about 6 months as well. but ill clean it
what and where are the vaccum line..? im an idiot... sorry

and where is my egr, pcv annd vaccum fitting.. im still new to exhaust..... thanks
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alibi

"5.) Vacuum leaks can cause a lean condition and/or possibly a high idle. Check for cracked hoses a bad gasket or a faulty EGR or PCV Valve.(i have a very high idle and i do not no where i shold check . what hoses do i check.? what gasket.? and where is the egr and pvc valve again.? and how do i check them.?))"

High Idle? Thats not good... your best friend is going to be a can of carb cleaner. Find all your vacuum lines (rubber sections of line, sometimes connecting plastic sections, the rubber breaks down over time and cracks allowing leaks) and spray each one down with the carb cleaner. If the idle changes, then you found your leak.

The EGR is under the round black cap on the top of the motor near the firewall on the brake booster side of the motor. If you are to pop the cap off, the valve consists of three solenoids. Spray the base of the valve around the gasket seating area.

The PCV valve is your positive crankcase ventilation valve and is located near the UIM, near the power steering pump, and under a bunch of harnesses. Its a bit hard to find but if you do a search I'm sure a better description will pop up.
Vacuum lines are all over the engine bay. Just look for short pieces of rubber tubing and you've found some. If the rubber rubs off black soot, feels crumbly or grainy then it needs to be replaced. Rubber breaks down under heat and time and if they're original, then they're toast.
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Old 01-10-2008, 03:07 PM   #8
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[quote="Alibi"]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alibi

"5.) Vacuum leaks can cause a lean condition and/or possibly a high idle. Check for cracked hoses a bad gasket or a faulty EGR or PCV Valve.(i have a very high idle and i do not no where i shold check . what hoses do i check.? what gasket.? and where is the egr and pvc valve again.? and how do i check them.?))"

High Idle? Thats not good... your best friend is going to be a can of carb cleaner. Find all your vacuum lines (rubber sections of line, sometimes connecting plastic sections, the rubber breaks down over time and cracks allowing leaks) and spray each one down with the carb cleaner. If the idle changes, then you found your leak.

The EGR is under the round black cap on the top of the motor near the firewall on the brake booster side of the motor. If you are to pop the cap off, the valve consists of three solenoids. Spray the base of the valve around the gasket seating area.

The PCV valve is your positive crankcase ventilation valve and is located near the UIM, near the power steering pump, and under a bunch of harnesses. Its a bit hard to find but if you do a search I'm sure a better description will pop up.
Vacuum lines are all over the engine bay. Just look for short pieces of rubber tubing and you've found some. If the rubber rubs off black soot, feels crumbly or grainy then it needs to be replaced. Rubber breaks down under heat and time and if they're original, then they're toast.[/quote



the whole car is original execpt the alt, icm, ignition coil, and radiator, power steering pump..
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Old 01-10-2008, 05:25 PM   #9
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Any rubber vacuum lines on the car should be replaced if they haven't already. It is a lot cheaper and easier to start there than to replace other parts.
If you have a big enough vacuum leak, that could cause a lean condition. And since you also have a TCC SES, I would start by checking the vacuum line to the transmission'* vacuum modulator. That may not solve your problem, but it is where I would start.
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastard
Any rubber vacuum lines on the car should be replaced if they haven't already. It is a lot cheaper and easier to start there than to replace other parts.
If you have a big enough vacuum leak, that could cause a lean condition. And since you also have a TCC SES, I would start by checking the vacuum line to the transmission'* vacuum modulator. That may not solve your problem, but it is where I would start.

( I would start by checking the vacuum line to the transmission'* vacuum modulator. )

where is this line you mention in the sentence above.? thanks
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