Changing rear struts
I need new struts on the rear. Would it be best to have a shop do them or would it be ok to do them myself. Also, is this one of those cars that requires a 4 wheel alignment when the rears are done?
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True Car Nut
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: In your garage, swipin' da lug nutz

They are doable yourself, but yes you will need to have your camber reset by a shop. I haven't done mine alignment yet because I am waiting until I get the front ones done then do a 4-wheel alignment on it.
Also keep in mind that you may need new strut mounts. Mine looked fine, but conditions vary.
Also keep in mind that you may need new strut mounts. Mine looked fine, but conditions vary.
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True Car Nut
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,067
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From: In your garage, swipin' da lug nutz

I found a way to help with that issue Bill. First thing to do after the wheel comes off is use your scissors jack and put it right under the control arm. Then snug fit in place. Once all the strut bolts are loose, you can manualy compress the old strut and slip it out, or if you need a little wiggle room you can back off on the scissors jack a little.
Makes things MUCH easier.
Makes things MUCH easier.
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We reccomend the Monroes.. Usually the Sensatracks...
I have Monroe Matic Plus Struts on my 95 all the way around... The 91 will get them soon as well
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I have Monroe Matic Plus Struts on my 95 all the way around... The 91 will get them soon as well

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Posts like a Supercharger
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

The rear struts are acutally quite simple to do, I did mine in under an hour in a driveway... best thing to do is put the whole rear end up in the air on jackstands, and undo the bottom bolts first, while holding up the rear hub with a jack (use a floor jack if possible), then undo the top nuts.. I wouldn't worry too much about an alignment unless your springs are shot too... because then the back end was definatly sagging.. I don't remember what size the nuts and bolts are for the conrtol arm, but IIRC, they are 2 diffent sizes... use 1/2" drive ratchets and a good snip/breaker bar...
I replaced my rear struts, and have not noticed any problem with camber.. if anything it is better now than before.... I'm waiting for an alignment because I've got something out of whack in my frontend...
** W00T... post #100!
**
I replaced my rear struts, and have not noticed any problem with camber.. if anything it is better now than before.... I'm waiting for an alignment because I've got something out of whack in my frontend...
** W00T... post #100!
**
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While I agree that the rear struts are easy to replace...
Once you have removed the rear struts you have thrown the alignment, and you have changed the thrust angles as well... If you are going to do the fronts along with the rears make sure you mark or at least have a measurement or marking to try to reset the strut as close as possible to the one you removed... The have an alignment ASAP..
If you are doing the rears only, againg set the struts as close as possible to the ones you removed either by a measurement or an alignment mark of sorts.. You will not have changed the Toe or Castor, but the Chamber will be off, you will want to have the alignment reset by a good shop
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Once you have removed the rear struts you have thrown the alignment, and you have changed the thrust angles as well... If you are going to do the fronts along with the rears make sure you mark or at least have a measurement or marking to try to reset the strut as close as possible to the one you removed... The have an alignment ASAP..
If you are doing the rears only, againg set the struts as close as possible to the ones you removed either by a measurement or an alignment mark of sorts.. You will not have changed the Toe or Castor, but the Chamber will be off, you will want to have the alignment reset by a good shop
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