Changing Heads On 1987 LeSabre - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-25-2007, 02:11 PM   #11
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Default Re: It jumped time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slightlines
It jumped time on Sunday, September 2nd, the day before Labor Day, and bent 3 valves.
I had the timing job done at a garage.
The sad thing is that this was not uncommon on the Older 3.0 Vin L and 3.8 Vin3 86-87 engines... I have seen several do this myself and in some cases the damage was enough to doom the car to the wrecker..

As long as the heads aren't damaged beyond repair it should be an easy fix..

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Old 10-26-2007, 12:33 AM   #12
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Default Messed up?

I may have screwed up.
I labeled 12 large food storage bags 1a, 1b, 2a, etc., and saved the rocker arms, screws, and push rods, from each cylinder, to the appropriate bag.
The extra, shared, piece was saved to the "b" bags.
I saw, in the Haynes manual, where people use a box with holes in it for the push rods, but I wanted to keep everything a little more manageable, in case someone should happen by and take the push rods out an look at them.
The book only mentioned putting them back in the same place.
It didn't say anything about making sure that the "up" end stayed up.
Is this an issue?
I've only done the front bank, so far.
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Old 10-26-2007, 02:43 AM   #13
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Default

I've never done this, but I would think that the wear on the top of a pushrod would look different than at the bottom, due to the fact that the rocker arm is pivoting against it. Might be very hard to see though?
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:20 AM   #14
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Default

I think the bottom of the pushrod will have a very uniform wear path, the wear path of the Rocker arm end should be a little longer...

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Old 10-26-2007, 11:33 AM   #15
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Thanks, theJMFC and jr's3800.
I'll be a LOT more careful with the rear head'* push rods.
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Old 11-02-2007, 09:21 PM   #16
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Default Broken Piece

While at the back of the manifold, I managed to break the top off of this piece.
It has a plastic tip which a connector goes on.
This is just above the engine to transaxle bolts...just below that big hole at the rear of the plenum/intake manifold, directly below that hose nipple tree, above that big, shiny heat shield.
The stem is still intact, inside that white circle of plastic.
It appears to be threaded into the top of the "bell housing"...if that'* what you call it.
Anyone know what this is called?

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Old 11-02-2007, 10:18 PM   #17
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Default

ahhh... You broke the top of the Knock Sensor off...lol...

Have you managed ti get the heads off?

And I like that SRTA Trans...

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Old 11-03-2007, 01:21 AM   #18
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Default Knock Sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
ahhh... You broke the top of the Knock Sensor off...lol...
It rather crumbled.
So...can I just stick the probe back in the stem and glue it?
...or does it have to be replaced?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Have you managed ti get the heads off?
Nope. Not yet. Those photos are from this afternoon,
It'* a *-l-o-o-o-w-w go.
I'm taking pictures every time I take something else off.
Like so:

...just in case I forget where something goes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
And I like that SRTA Trans...
I don't like its knock sensor.
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Old 11-03-2007, 02:03 AM   #19
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Good lord... are there enough Temp sensors and switches on that motor... Wow

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Old 11-03-2007, 02:08 AM   #20
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Default

Yep, I remember from having LG3 87 ciera, 1 sensor for the ECM, 1 sender/switch for the dash light or gage, and 1 backup sensor set to a higher temperature to directly turn the fan on if the ECM fails to do it.

matt
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