My air conditioning is barely cooling these days. I was wondering if there is anything I can do myself. Yes I know the refrigerant is illegal or whatever. Just wondering how I go about recharging the system. I have heard of conversion kits. Any input would be helpful.

Im not to sure if u can do it yourself, i think that u may have to take it to a garage for recharging.. I did ask the guy if there was any do it yourself methods and he told me there wasnt because the person had to be authorized to handle those types of materials... if u know someone that has a garage maybe they can cut u a deal down your way, maybe u can do it yourself. but im not sure how it works in the states. :/

I was bored last night, and walking through the local 24 hour Meijer store, and there was a r134 conversion kit on sale for $22.99. It says that it has everything needed to convert our old r12 system to the new, legal stuff.

Contents included new fittings, three cans of refridgerant, and a can of oil that is compatible with the new stuff, and also with the old oil (or so they say).

I was wondering about this for myself, but wanted to ask the Club what they thought. Would this be:

a) a good idea?
b) a bad idea? :?
c) a very, very bad idea?

I don't buy it....Or I should say, I wouldn't buy it!! I have heard that BEFORE you can convert over to the 134A stuff, you need to get all the R12 Freon pumped out of your existing system. I know you're probably on a tight buget, but if don't take it to someone that has the right equipment, it'll cost you more down the road. They also need to check for leaks. It'* also possible that if your just a little low on R12 and you don't have any leaks you might find a legitamate a/c tech that can add R12 to your system. R12 is extremely expensive today(at least $60/lb If you can find it). But sometimes it might be cheaper than the conversion. DON'T(never, Never, NEVER) add any of that stuff that some people claim is compatible with your existing R12. You can cause a Very dangerous situation. In any event, go to a certified A/C person to see what'* best for you.

Reason you need to have the system flushed and pumped down right is to remove all traces of the R-12 ->oil<- not just the R-12. R-12 and R-134A oils used to be completely incompatible though they may have found a way to fix that as well.

Any time a system is opened, I replace the dryer and punp down a hard vaccuum to be certain all moisture is out and then let the evacuated system site for an hour or two (is a hobby so do not need to be concerned about time) to make certain there are no leaks before refilling.

The differerence between someone who really understands an a/c and someone who throws parts at it is twofold:
1) how long the fix lasts (the R-134A conversion on our Bonne is over five years old now)
2) how well it cools particularly at idle (should be "enough" if not quite the "freeze you out" at cruise - on a 90 degree day am dialing back from "max cool" in about 10 minutes)

As to the increased head pressures - yes but not much if you put the right amount in which is about 80% of the R-12 charge. GM has high pressure limits built in and have never hit one of those. Too much freon

One big element of these cars is that for model year 1989 GM made some major changes in the cooling fan programs - prior ones only had the tractor (puller) fan come on half speed with a/c until the coolant hit around 220F. Later cars bring both the puller and the pusher in at low speed and I diddle the Proms to bring in HI speed at 190F. The amount of air through the condensor makes a big difference in cooling whether R-12 or R-134.

Padgett,
I'm assuming, at the moment, that you running with a 180F t-stat. Otherwise, with a 195F t-stat your fans would stay on all the time when it goes over the 190F threshold.
I'm one of those that is presently sticking with my 195F t-stat but I am somewhat concerned about a thermo nuclear meltdown this will eventually have on my engine/xmission. I like the idea of having the cooling fan(singular in my case) come on earlier than 220F(without the A/C being on). I saw this device on the Club GP Store site and was wondering if this is a feasible(and easier) alternative than reprogramming ones PROM?
http://www.clubgpstore.com/itemview.asp?itemid=35

Does anyone know off-hand about how much it costs to get an AC system pumped out?

I'd call around, but it'* like 7:30 here...

I've also heard of it being done without actually pumping all of the old stuff out, but I think i'd rather do it right.

yall lost me out there..

There is a method I have seen to pump a system down by connecting a set of gauges, running the car and compressor with the high side open, and pumping the system down that way but it is not very good.

For any project like this I would flush the system first, replace the dryer and oriface tube, and then pump down and recharge. Anything else and you are playing Russian Roulette with one chamber empty.