I need to check the voltage when nothing is happening. The buzzing relay sure sounds suspecious. I assume it gets a signal as feedback from the unit itself, controlled by ...???

I poked around eBay today. Somebody has "ABS computers" for sale ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT ). I assume that'* for real - haven't looked to see if such a thing exists on my car.

Someone else had a master unit from a Reatta listed - $125 starting bid, $155 "buy it now". While I was asking about shipping costs, somebody snatched it up. Oh, well.

This guy says he has rebuilt units http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT . I called to ask if it would also fit the SSE, his response basically was if it looks like it, it'll fit. Well, it mostly looks like it, but that pig-tail looking thing coming off near the motor doesn't look the same - not sure what that is.

Another guy has a unit removed from a '90 Reatta, wants $350 + $30 shipping. It looks right.

Need to determine once & for all if the problem is within the unit or not. In any case, the sinking pedal would lead one to believe the unit has problems, so should be replaced regardless.

The saga continues. Not sure when I'll have a chance to get back out to look at it again.

Maybe I should just bid on the '97 Lumina that'* at $1200 now. . .

The brushes I used did come out of a drill. They were a little big so I just filed them down and inserted the motor leads into them.

Buying an abs unit will not fix anythign because the brake failure is not related to that. The abs light coming on is an indicator of low brake pressure. There are 4 pressure reference settings ( make sense?) with this system, I dont know the numbers off hand but when the accumulator is full there are 4 steps as it decreases. First the pump will turn on and recharge the system, no lights wil be on. Then as the pump is still on, and you keep using the brakes, the pressure will drop and the abs light will come on. Pressure keeps decreasing, and the abs and brake lights come on, your at very low pressure. Then the last step is all pressure gone, the brakes go hard.

This is a teves system. it should work. Im not sure what you mean by the 'pig-tail looking thing'. The black plastic thing on the back is just a rubber boot...

The unknown "pigtail" I'm talking about is circled.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51...absgm88-90.jpg

By that, I assume you mean the "ABS computer" being sold that I linked.

ANY ABS parts. Not just the computer.

I have the computer but I don't think thats your problem.
Mine has been unhooked since my wheel sensor cracked and I didn't want to pull the shaft again.
I have excellent brake feel and the pump works independantly of the computer.

I guess I'm terminology-challenged.

The Teves unit is not an "ABS part" in this defination, true?

I need a Teves unit, yes? I'm planning on getting the reman Teves unit. Am I off track?

The ABS part of the system would be the wheel sensors and the brake computer, which is not your problem. The Teves system is the actual brake assembly. Yes you are correct by buying a reman teves unit.

Okay, good to know.

Thanks for bearing with me. I know Camaros a lot better than I know Bonnevilles. . .

A lot of TGP/TSTE guys have found that the accumulator is at fault when the brakes only charge periodically, or not at all. Granted that system is the Powermaster III, it is VERY similar to the Teves II (which is also optional in '86, and standard '87 & up for all 6000 STEs). Failure of this system has been the death of a great many AWD 6000s, as most owners just junk it when they find out the cost in getting it replaced. :( That link you provided......that'* some good info. The Reatta system is very similar to the 6000'*, and practically identicle to yours, so that should work for you. Plus, it says they remanufacture quite a few of them. Perhaps you can send in yours and get it redone (thus, making sure everything is identicle/right for your car)? I'm going to try calling to ask about the 6000'* mastercylinder. It'* leaking brake fluid bad, now, and the pump motor won't shut off.