1987 Buick LeSabre Won't Start
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From: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)
So you DO have fuel then. We don't know how much pressure exactly, but at least it'* there. When I sold my '89, the fuel pressure was down to about 20-25 PSI running (dying pump), and it still ran. I'd say it sounds like you have enough fuel pressure that it should at least start.
So, ignition it is.
I think you can pull the ECM fuse at any time the key is off. I pulled my entire ECM out of the car with the battery hooked up, with no damage. Not that I suggest that... I just didn't care at that point. You should be fine just pulling the fuse. Not sure about the flashing light though.
Did you ever pull a plug or three and see if they were wet? Fuel at the rail doesn't necessarily mean that the injectors are firing.
Isn't there a relay that turns on power to the ignition, fuel injectors, and sensors? I just troubleshooted this same problem just a few months back, and I think there is one main relay that should give you power to all of the above when the key is turned on. On my '89 it was under the hood, on the firewall. There were two of them, and I can't recall what the other one was for... Might be easiest to check for 12v at the ICM connector (Pink/Black wire).
We'll get to the bottom of this. It can only be so many things...
So, ignition it is.
I think you can pull the ECM fuse at any time the key is off. I pulled my entire ECM out of the car with the battery hooked up, with no damage. Not that I suggest that... I just didn't care at that point. You should be fine just pulling the fuse. Not sure about the flashing light though.
Did you ever pull a plug or three and see if they were wet? Fuel at the rail doesn't necessarily mean that the injectors are firing.
Isn't there a relay that turns on power to the ignition, fuel injectors, and sensors? I just troubleshooted this same problem just a few months back, and I think there is one main relay that should give you power to all of the above when the key is turned on. On my '89 it was under the hood, on the firewall. There were two of them, and I can't recall what the other one was for... Might be easiest to check for 12v at the ICM connector (Pink/Black wire).
We'll get to the bottom of this. It can only be so many things...
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Hi I have a bonniville and mine did the same thing as yours. i went thru and check plugs coils, ign. mod. fuel injectors and fuel pump everything fine. I replaced fuel regulator on account someone had said that was it. I replaced crank shaft sensor ( what a pain to pull balancer off) that was not it. i finally took it to dealer and it was the dumb mass air flow sensor. An easy way to test this, is to just unplug it. Then the vehicle should run and stay running and not stall while unplugged.
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From: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)
Originally Posted by kelseyamber
Hi I have a bonniville and mine did the same thing as yours. i went thru and check plugs coils, ign. mod. fuel injectors and fuel pump everything fine. I replaced fuel regulator on account someone had said that was it. I replaced crank shaft sensor ( what a pain to pull balancer off) that was not it. i finally took it to dealer and it was the dumb mass air flow sensor. An easy way to test this, is to just unplug it. Then the vehicle should run and stay running and not stall while unplugged.
So maybe if it'* a fuel issue after all, but I think not if it'* a spark issue.
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From: North Central Texas
Update
Not having the ready cash to purchase a torque wrench that will accommodate 219 ft. lbs. of torque, I decided to take it into a garage and have it diagnosed.
It jumped time.
It did have fire and fuel.
The bill, so far, is $415.00, for the timing work.
They changed antifreeze, oil, and oil filter.
Valves were bent in both heads.
Three in total.
They want $500.00 each to work the heads and that brings the total bill to just under $1500.00.
I have changed heads on a 305 Chevy truck.
I may be able to cut my losses by doing the work myself.
Suggestions?
It jumped time.
It did have fire and fuel.
The bill, so far, is $415.00, for the timing work.
They changed antifreeze, oil, and oil filter.
Valves were bent in both heads.
Three in total.
They want $500.00 each to work the heads and that brings the total bill to just under $1500.00.
I have changed heads on a 305 Chevy truck.
I may be able to cut my losses by doing the work myself.
Suggestions?
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Posts: n/a
Re: Update
Originally Posted by slightlines
Not having the ready cash to purchase a torque wrench that will accommodate 219 ft. lbs. of torque, I decided to take it into a garage and have it diagnosed.
It jumped time.
It did have fire and fuel.
The bill, so far, is $415.00, for the timing work.
They changed antifreeze, oil, and oil filter.
Valves were bent in both heads.
Three in total.
They want $500.00 each to work the heads and that brings the total bill to just under $1500.00.
I have changed heads on a 305 Chevy truck.
I may be able to cut my losses by doing the work myself.
Suggestions?
It jumped time.
It did have fire and fuel.
The bill, so far, is $415.00, for the timing work.
They changed antifreeze, oil, and oil filter.
Valves were bent in both heads.
Three in total.
They want $500.00 each to work the heads and that brings the total bill to just under $1500.00.
I have changed heads on a 305 Chevy truck.
I may be able to cut my losses by doing the work myself.
Suggestions?
I am sorry to hear about this tho..
In the past I have seen these motors do this due to that timing chain set up.. Thats why I wondered if the timing gear was aluminum with nylon teeth..
If there is anything we can help answer for you please feel free to ask, we will do what we can to guide you
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From: North Central Texas
Thanx
Thanks, jr's3800.
I appreciate that.
About the only thing 'm concerned about is the possible "hidden" dangers that this engine may present.
I spent 20+ years on the parts counter and have fixed more than my share of auto problems, but I've never worked on a 3.8L before.
One thing I've found, however:
Today'* counterpersons are not all that sharp when it comes to car repair.
Blame the computers they use?
Blame the hiring practices?
Blame the lack of training?
When I was on the counter, I took things very seriously.
I managed two Auto Parts stores and was Assistant Manager at three others.
I had mechanics coming to me for help in diagnosing and repairing vehicles.
...but, that was in the 70s, 80s, and 90s.
My boss helped write the first Borg-Warner emission controls catalog.
Today, it seems to be get the info, look up the part, and get the money.
Period!
I really appreciate you guys.
I appreciate that.
About the only thing 'm concerned about is the possible "hidden" dangers that this engine may present.
I spent 20+ years on the parts counter and have fixed more than my share of auto problems, but I've never worked on a 3.8L before.
One thing I've found, however:
Today'* counterpersons are not all that sharp when it comes to car repair.
Blame the computers they use?
Blame the hiring practices?
Blame the lack of training?
When I was on the counter, I took things very seriously.
I managed two Auto Parts stores and was Assistant Manager at three others.
I had mechanics coming to me for help in diagnosing and repairing vehicles.
...but, that was in the 70s, 80s, and 90s.
My boss helped write the first Borg-Warner emission controls catalog.
Today, it seems to be get the info, look up the part, and get the money.
Period!
I really appreciate you guys.
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Posts: n/a
Its been a long time since I have dealt with a Vin 3 3.8 V6...
But its not all that different than a 3800 V6..
Your motor has roller lifters, and the same style pivots as the 3800 as well as simmilar exhaust manifolds...
If you can work on the 305-350 chevy... You will have no issues with a 3.8... Just look at it as a 350 turned sideways with 2 missing cylinders...lol...
I got the feeling you had jumped time... A good while back we saw a lot of the 86-87 GM cars with the 3.0 and 3.8'* jump time.... Most did it between 80-120k... And some did it while going down the interstate... The damage was bad enough in some cases to destroy the heads... Not nice when it happens at 80 Mph..
But you seem knowledgeable enough to me to tackle such a project... The engines haven't changed a whole lot, but some of the electronics have... Other than that its still an engine..
Again we are here to help answer anything you need to know.. I may have some info I can dig into if there is anything you need..
And yes I have gotten into arguments with the part counter guys.. I could tell them thats not the part I need till I'm blue in the face and they just tell me thats what the Puter calls for.. Then I make them search through the years to find it.. Then I go... Yep thats the one..
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But its not all that different than a 3800 V6..
Your motor has roller lifters, and the same style pivots as the 3800 as well as simmilar exhaust manifolds...
If you can work on the 305-350 chevy... You will have no issues with a 3.8... Just look at it as a 350 turned sideways with 2 missing cylinders...lol...
I got the feeling you had jumped time... A good while back we saw a lot of the 86-87 GM cars with the 3.0 and 3.8'* jump time.... Most did it between 80-120k... And some did it while going down the interstate... The damage was bad enough in some cases to destroy the heads... Not nice when it happens at 80 Mph..
But you seem knowledgeable enough to me to tackle such a project... The engines haven't changed a whole lot, but some of the electronics have... Other than that its still an engine..
Again we are here to help answer anything you need to know.. I may have some info I can dig into if there is anything you need..
And yes I have gotten into arguments with the part counter guys.. I could tell them thats not the part I need till I'm blue in the face and they just tell me thats what the Puter calls for.. Then I make them search through the years to find it.. Then I go... Yep thats the one..
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Thread Starter
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From: North Central Texas
I appreciate that.
Originally Posted by jr's3800
If you can work on the 305-350 chevy... You will have no issues with a 3.8... Just look at it as a 350 turned sideways with 2 missing cylinders...lol...
You don't have to pull the engine to get to either of the heads, do you?
I can get the heads worked at O'Rilley'* for $35.00 each.
...plus valves, naturally.
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Re: I appreciate that.
Originally Posted by slightlines
Originally Posted by jr's3800
If you can work on the 305-350 chevy... You will have no issues with a 3.8... Just look at it as a 350 turned sideways with 2 missing cylinders...lol...
You don't have to pull the engine to get to either of the heads, do you?
I can get the heads worked at O'Rilley'* for $35.00 each.
...plus valves, naturally.
No you do not have to pull the engine to remove the heads... But you will have to fight a little with the rear exhaust manifold to be able to hit the head bolts... It really not that bad.. Wear some mechanic gloves and save your hands...lol
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Not sure how much this will help, but your 3.8 will be similar... The guy in the Pic is the Member known as Sandrock.. We tore into his 3800 really bad 
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